• About the book

    Wisconsin's Devil’s Lake State Park is, hands down, the Midwest’s premier rock-climbing area. With its many, many routes in the more moderate grades, and the wide range of techniques required to ascend them, it has even been called the best place in the country to learn to climb. Located just northwest of Madison, it is the closest major crag for countless Midwest climbers, from Chicago to Des Moines, Milwaukee to the Twin Cities. The Lake also features great hiking, swimming, and camping. The unique quartzite rock is a wonder of nature, notable for its vibrant purple color and made-to-climb texture. From ladder-like beginner’s romps, to strenuous crack leads, to desperate glassy faces, you’ll find something perfect to suit every mood. There are no bolts at Devil’s Lake, and though the bullet-hard stone offers many fine lead climbs, toproping is widely practiced, leading to a fun, community atmosphere where climbers can test themselves to the limit with minimal risk and maximum focus on precision movement. Check out this website by the local guide service for tips on setting up toprope anchors at Devil's Lake. Mastery of small holds is a hallmark of Lake-trained rock climbers who venture out to other areas of the country. Your training will serve you well! In addition to describing almost 900 climbs at all the cliffs of Devil’s Lake State Park, this book also devotes over 20 pages on two nearby areas, Necedah and Hillbilly Hollow, which feature a different kind of rock, and even a little bolted sport climbing and a smattering of the best bouldering.

    Featuring

    • Almost 1000 rock climbs
    • the 40 best boulder problems
    • Area maps and schematics
    • Geology, flora, and fauna
    • Detailed climbing history
    • Guide to park rules, camping options, and local amenities
    • Colorful essays by John Gill, Leo Hermacinski, Steve Sangdahl, Nick Rhoads, and others
    • Dozens of inspring action photos

    Areas included in Devil's Lake

    • East Bluff
    • West Bluff
    • Sandstone Bluff
    • Necedah
    • Hillbilly Hollow

    About the Author

    Jay Knower, 38, grew up in Baraboo, WI, with Devil’s Lake in his backyard, and began climbing there as a teenager in 1993. This introduction to rock climbing did the trick, and he has gone on to visit crags all over the world, climbing up to 5.13a trad and 5.14a sport and establishing many new routes. Jay met his wife Kayte in Yosemite’s Camp 4, and the couple moved to New Hampshire together in 2003 and have lived there ever since — though Jay makes it a point to get back to Devil’s Lake at least once a year to visit family and test himself on his beloved home quartzite. Jay holds a B.A. in English and an M.Ed. in English Education, and has worked in education his entire adult life. His writing has appeared in Climbing Magazine, The Canadian Alpine Journal, and The New Hampshire Journal of Education. A lifelong runner, Jay has completed two marathons, and every year he threatens to run another one (but doesn’t). He currently lives in Campton, New Hampshire, with Kayte, their daughter June, and Topher the Mountain Poodle.

    Details

    • Devil's Lake: A Climbing Guide
    • 2016 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Jay Knower
    • 308 full-color pages
    • 9781938393259
  • About the book

    The very best climbs in the High Sierra, according to iconic climber Peter Croft. He has hand picked and described in detail his favorite climbs in a region that boasts some of the cleanest granite that you'll find anywhere. Sprinkled throughout the text are interesting personal anecdotes and insider's beta. The first edition covered 40 of the top climbs. This 2nd edition has even more. How could you go wrong with The Good, the Great, and the Awesome?

    Areas featured

    • Whitney Region
    • Palisades
    • Bishop High Country
    • Tuolumne Meadows
    • The Incredible Hulk
    • Roadside Cragging

    About the author

    Peter Croft needs little introduction, being a longtime icon in the sport. Perhaps most famous for his daring first free solo of Yosemite's famed Astroman, he has spent the last twenty years climbing in the Eastern Sierra. He lives in Bishop with his wife, Karine.

    Details

    • The Good, the Great, and the Awesome
    • 2016 Maximus Press
    • by Peter Croft
    • 304 full-color pages
    • 9780982498835
  • About the book

    The City of Rocks and Castle Rocks State Park is your essential companion for the amazing granite climbing in the high desert of southern Idaho, one of the most popular summer rock-climbing areas in the Rocky Mountain West. Other landmarks have been christened “City of Rocks,” but to climbers this one is THE City. It’s been called America’s premiere granite sport-climbing area — and just as often praised for its unique trad climbing. With more than 1000 routes to choose from, you can crimp overhanging patina, grunt up an offwidth, cruise a multi-pitch 5.8, or summit a dramatic spire — all within a short walk of your campsite. Nearby you’ll find historic inscriptions, hikes, mountain biking, and the funky Western town of Almo to keep you supplied and entertained on rest days. Also included here for the first time is the sweet climbing at nearby Castle Rocks State Park. With a different, quieter vibe than the roadside crags in the City, Castle Rocks is a worthy destination in itself, with over 300 routes up to three pitches long, featuring many moderate climbs with a more “modern,” novice-friendly equipping style. Dave Bingham has been chronicling the climbing at City of Rocks since the 1980s, but this is the breakthrough edition, with full-color cliff photographs throughout and excellent maps that put an end to the days of wandering lost in search of your desired crag. The action photography alone will have you planning your trip immediately.

    Areas included

    • City of Rocks
    • Castle Rocks State Park

    About the author

    Born on Long Island, NY, Dave Bingham spent his childhood in the Northeast, learning to ski and climb in his early teens before moving out West in the 1970s. He spent summers in Yosemite and winters near Sun Valley, Idaho, guiding rock and teaching cross-country skiing and soon making his permanent home in the Sun Valley area. Dave lives in Hailey, with his wife Lisa, where he runs a log-home chinking business, Dave Bingham Chinking. He still drags out his college-age-and-younger children Tara, Cameron, Jack, and Kate on a variety of mountain adventures. Dave’s curriculum vitae in adventure sports is impressive: a lifelong athlete and competitor, he has won many Nordic ski and running races in Idaho, and has placed as high as 3rd (1980) in the famous Pikes Peak Marathon. In 1988 and 1990 he won the notorious NBC Survival of the Fittest contest, an old-school, now-defunct version of today’s American Ninja Warrior — but held outside in much more dangerous terrain, featuring stunts such as speed rappelling, whitewater swimming, downhill running, and a log-rolling/stick-fighting battle thing. Dave went on to enter the even more grueling BBC Arctic Survival comp, winning in 1990 and 1992. Dave also set the speed record for ascending all nine of Idaho’s peaks over 12,000 feet: 38 hours, besting the previous record by two days (check out the current record holders). On the rock-climbing front, Dave is a longtime and prolific new-router, with over 200 first ascents up to 5.13, spread over 30+ years, in the City of Rocks alone. Though an “early adopter” of the sport-climbing ethic in the mid 1980s, Dave is a true all-arounder, with many trad ascents in the City, the Elephant’s Perch in the Sawtooths, and farther afield. Though still putting up new routes, Dave is now more of a mentor on the Idaho climbing scene. In addition to authoring eight editions of the climber’s guide to City of Rocks, Dave is also the author of Idaho Underground, an eclectic guide to southern Idaho crags and boulders.

    Details

    • City of Rocks
    • 2016 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Dave Bingham
    • 312 full-color pages
    • 9781938393242
  • About the book

    Bishop Area Rock Climbs is the quintessential climbing guide to the Eastern Sierra South surrounding Bishop, California. It includes bouldering, trad climbing, sport climbing and multi-pitch climbing over a vast area. Bishop Area Rock Climbs has it all! Please note that this book does not include the climbing at Owens River Gorge. Click here for the new, updated, dedicated guidebook to this great sport climbing area! Inside this book you'll also find beta for a selection of bouldering at the Happy and Sad volcanic boulders which lie just outside town. Check out the Bishop Visitor's Center for some information on the local climbing areas and businesses to patronize while in Bishop.

    Areas covered

    • Alabama Hills
    • Whitney Portal
    • Buttermilk Country
    • Cardinal Pinnacle
    • Happy and Sad Boulders
    • Buttermilk Country
    • Pine Creek

    About the authors

    Peter Croft was born in Canada, but escaped the cold and wet and now resides in Bishop. He has written numerous essays, articles, and guidebooks, and is an authority on climbing in the Sierras. Find some of his Sierra favorites in his book The Good, the Great, and the Awesome. In addition to writing and climbing for fun, Peter also works as a climbing guide for Sierra Mountain Guides. Information on their services is found here. Marty Lewis has lived in the Eastern Sierra for over 30 years. He owns and runs Maximus Press, and lives in Bishop with wife Sharon and canine friends.

    Details

    • Bishop Area Rock Climbs 3rd edition
    • 2008 Maximus Press
    • by Peter Croft & Marty Lewis
    • 335 pages in black and white
    • 9780967611693
     
  • About the book

    If you like sport climbing on vertical to overhanging volcanic rock in the sun, you'll have big days of fun climbing at the Big Chief area near Lake Tahoe, California. Located at 7,000 feet in the mountains between Truckee and Tahoe, this is one of the best cool weather crags in the Tahoe region. Complemented with plentiful camping, the volcanic rock makes for a nice switch from the more typical granite found around Tahoe. Big Chief Area Climbs provides clear, concise beta that has been checked and rechecked. In fact, the author himself climbed almost every single route to verify the accuracy of all the info herein!

    Areas included

    • Big Chief
    • Light Deprivation Buttress
    • Little Chief
    • Sawtooth Ridge
    • Fun circuit ideas are suggested.
    Updates to the area can be found here (although there haven't been changes in a few years).

    About the author

    Marek Hajek grew up in the Czech Republic, and moved to Lake Tahoe in 1989. His friend Don Harder introduced him to climbing in 1992. Progress for Marek was slow, but he steadily worked up to having ticked all but three climbs in the Big Chief area. Marek married his wife Trang in 2001, and they live in Reno and climb in Tahoe as much as possible.

    Details

    • Big Chief Area Climbs
    • 2005 Maximus Press
    • by Marek Hajek
    • 96 pages in black and white
    • 9789067611679
     

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