• About New River Rock Vol 1

    The New River Gorge of West Virginia is one of the most dramatic canyons in the East. It’s famous for its whitewater rafting, the BASE-jumping extravaganza of “Bridge Day,” and, of course, its world-class rock climbing. New River Gorge climbing is a unique combination of excellent, historic trad and equally excellent, historic sport. Unlike its main “rival” crag, Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, the New holds equal allure for both trad and sport climbers. No surprise to the tradsters: the Nuttall Sandstone is harder than granite and riddled with excellent cracks of all sizes. Fair enough, say the sportsters, but the bolted climbing is some of the best and most varied anywhere! The specialty of the house is technical climbing that will test your ingenuity, footwork, and finger strength, but there are plenty of massively overhanging sectors for those who just want to grab big holds and pull. There is so much climbing in the New that we’ve had to split it into two volumes, each with a lifetime’s worth of routes to explore.

    Volume 1 – The Main Gorge

    This volume documents the heart of New River Gorge climbing, the crags of the main gorge. You’ll find all the beta for more than 1900 climbing routes on the immaculate sandstone walls of this beautiful river canyon. Endless climbing! (But while you’re in the area, you won’t want to miss the Meadow and Summersville Lake – the newest edition of  Vol 2 released in July 2021).

    Areas covered

    • Kaymoor
    • Bubba City
    • Beauty Mountain
    • Junkyard
    • Bridge Buttress
    • Fern Buttress
    • Endless Wall
    • South Nuttall
    • Domino Point
    • Sunshine Buttress
    • Keeney’s Buttress
    • Ambassador Buttress
    • Cotton Top
    • Needleseye (access and overview only)

    Featuring

    • premium sewn binding
    • entertaining route descriptions
    • up-to-date beta on over 1900 routes
    • detailed history
    • camping and apres-climb stuff
    • inspiring color photos

    The Author

    Mike Williams learned to climb on the granite domes of North Carolina, but felt the pull of West Virginia’s Nuttall Sandstone after his first trips to the New in the late ’90s. He then toured around the US in a VW van looking for the best rock climbing before finally realizing it was back where he started, at the New River Gorge. He has since become an active route developer there. Mike has worked as a wilderness instructor, climbing guide, rigger, author, editor for Deadpoint Magazine, and guidebook project manager. He now runs Bridge Bound Campers, converting cargo vans into luxury road-trip machines. He lives in Fayetteville with his wife Elissa, children Hazel and Elliott, and crag dog Lilah. You can contact Mike at mikey@newriverclimbing.net or just stop by Bridge Bound Campers at 131 S Court Street to talk about his two passions — rock climbing and van dwelling. $1 per book sale goes straight to the local climber's org, New River Alliance of Climbers.

    Details

    • New River Rock Volume 1, 3rd edition
    • 2019 Wolverine Publishing
    • By Mike Williams
    • 460 full-color pages
    • 978193839341
  • About the book

    The New River Gorge of West Virginia is one of the most dramatic canyons in the East. It’s famous for its whitewater rafting, the BASE-jumping extravaganza of “Bridge Day,” and, of course, its world-class rock climbing. New River Gorge climbing is a unique combination of excellent, historic trad and equally excellent, historic sport. Unlike its main “rival” crag, Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, the New holds equal lure for both trad and sport climbers. No surprise to the tradsters: the Nuttall Sandstone is harder than granite and riddled with excellent cracks of all sizes. Fair enough, say the sportsters, but the bolted climbing is some of the best and most varied anywhere! The specialty of the house is technical climbing that will test your ingenuity, footwork, and finger strength, but there are plenty of massively overhanging sectors for those who just want to grab big holds and pull. There is so much climbing in the New that we’ve had to split it into two volumes, each with a lifetime’s worth of routes to explore.

    Volume 2 – The Meadow, Gauley, and Summersville Lake

    This volume documents the climbing north of the main gorge of the New, with over 1400 routes on the crags along the Meadow and Gauley rivers and surrounding Summersville Lake. Many of the crags here are close to fine swimming holes, making them favorites for summer climbing. The Coliseum at the Lake is arguably the most sought-after hardperson’s crag in the entire region, and as of 2021 now boasts the hardest sport climb in the East. Just a short stroll away is Orange Oswald, likely the most popular 5.10 sport crag in the New. And the steep, psychedelic rock of the Meadow must be seen to be believed. Endless climbing! But of course, you won’t want to miss the fantastic crags of the main gorge — see New River Rock Volume 1.

    Areas covered

    • Meadow South Side
    • Lower Meadow
    • Upper Meadow
    • Summersville Lake main area
    • Whippoorwill
    • Long Point
    • Gauley Crag
    • Carnifex Ferry

    Featuring

    • premium sewn binding
    • entertaining route descriptions
    • up-to-date beta on over 1400 routes
    • detailed history
    • camping and apres-climb stuff
    • inspiring color photos

    The Author

    Mike Williams learned to climb on the granite domes of North Carolina, but felt the pull of West Virginia’s Nuttall Sandstone after his first trips to the New in the late ’90s. He then toured around the US in a VW van looking for the best rock climbing before finally realizing it was back where he started, at the New River Gorge. He has since become an active route developer there. Mike has worked as a wilderness instructor, climbing guide, rigger, author, editor for Deadpoint Magazine, and guidebook project manager. He now runs Bridge Bound Campers, converting cargo vans into luxury road-trip machines. He lives in Fayetteville with his wife Elissa, children Hazel and Elliott, and crag dog Lilah. You can contact Mike at mikey@newriverclimbing.net or just stop by Bridge Bound Campers at 131 S Court Street to talk about his two passions — rock climbing and van dwelling. $1 per book sale goes straight to the local climber's org, New River Alliance of Climbers.

    Details

    • New River Rock Volume 2, 3rd edition
    • 2021 Wolverine Publishing
    • By Mike Williams
    • 328 full-color pages
    • 978193839402
  • About the book

    The 11th edition of the comprehensive Owens River Gorge Climbs is an indispensable resource for a great trip to California's premier basalt sport-climbing area, the Owens River Gorge. Written by longtime local Marty Lewis, this latest edition features over 900 climbs and many color action shots, both modern and historical, featuring rock stars of the day. There are maps, cliff photos, and hand-drawn topos to help you find your pick of climbs easily, as well as helpful lists of local amenities. Details like elevation, approach times, and the number and grade range of climbs at the beginning of each chapter will help with planning. A collection of essays written by notable Owens Valley Gorge climbers and route developers is sure to entertain during those long evenings at camp. Bishop is located in the Owens Valley of the Eastern Sierra. It's a great destination for a climbing trip at any time of the year, and Maximus Press publishes a selection of guidebooks that have you covered for all seasons. While the Owens Valley Gorge is best visited in the Spring and Fall, sometimes conditions permit climbing in the hotter and colder months. Check out Mammoth Area Rock Climbs and The Good, the Great, and the Awesome for some great summer climbing. Check out the Bishop Visitor Information website for a little more information and suggestions for climbing at the Gorge. You can also buy souvenirs right off their website if you don't feel like taking time for shopping while in Bishop.

    About the author

    Marty Lewis has been climbing at Owens River Gorge since 1989. During this time, he has climbed many of the routes there, and even established a few of them himself. He runs Maximus Press, and publishes several other guidebooks in the local area, as well as around California. He lives near Bishop with wife Sharon, and a couple of canine friends.

    Details

    • Owens River Gorge Climbs 11th edition
    • 2018 Maximus Press
    • by Marty Lewis
    • 388 color pages.
    • 9780982498842
  • About the book

    The Red River Gorge of Kentucky is one of the most enjoyable places in the world to climb. The Red River and its many tributaries have carved dozens of secluded canyons into the hill country south of Lexington, creating a natural wonderland and exposing a ridiculous amount of rock. The cliffs of the Red feature over 3000 routes, from traditional cracks to modern sport climbs, 5.4 to 5.14. More than enough to go around! But what makes Red River Gorge climbing unique is the wildly featured Corbin sandstone. Simply put, it's made to climb. The walls tend to be super-steep, but the holds are large and plentiful. You don't have to climb 5.12 get on crazy-steep rock here! Of course, if harder sport climbs are your thing, there is a lifetime's worth here. It is the most popular place on the eastern US to work your way up the grades.

    Volume 1: Red River Gorge climbing North

    This book, Volume 1 of a two-volume series, covers the crags located north of the Mountain Parkway (for the South, click here). This region includes some of the Red's most classic and historic cliffs, such as Military Wall, Left Flank, Long Wall, and Funk Rock City. Don't miss it!

    Areas and features

    • Military and Left Flank
    • Long Wall
    • Phantasia Wall
    • Eastern Sky Bridge
    • Funk Rock City
    • GPS Coordinates for easy navigation
    • essays on Porter Jarrard, Miguel Ventura, John Bronaugh, and more
    Looking to complete your set of Red River Gorge books? Pick up Volume 2: Southern Region. Want the best of both worlds? Check out our Red River Select.

    Authors

    Ray Ellington has been climbing in the Red for 30 years, has done four previous editions of this guidebook, and is tired of talking about himself on this page. He lives in Lexington, KY, with his wife and climbing partner Michelle, works as an IT Security Architect, and runs his website redriverclimbing.com. Dustin Stephens has been climbing nearly 30 years, including lots of bumbly-period trips from New York to Miguel's in the 1990s. He moved from Yosemite to Lexington in 2009 for medical school and has been spending way too much time climbing, bushwhacking, and putting up new routes in the Red since then.

    Details

    • Red River Gorge North
    • 2015 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Ray Ellington and Dustin Stephens
    • 248 full-color pages
    • 978193893204
  • About the book

    The Red River Gorge of Kentucky is one of the most enjoyable places in the world to climb. The Red River and its many tributaries have carved dozens of secluded canyons into the hill country east and south of Lexington, creating a natural wonderland and exposing a ridiculous amount of rock. The cliffs of the Red feature over 3000 routes, from traditional cracks to modern sport climbs, ranging from 5.4 to 5.14. More than enough to go around! But what makes Red River Gorge climbing unique is the wildly featured Corbin sandstone. Simply put, it's made to climb. The walls tend to be super-steep, but the holds are large and plentiful. You don't have to climb 5.12 get on crazy-steep rock here! Of course, if harder sport climbs are your thing, there is a lifetime's worth here. It is the most popular place in the eastern US to work your way up the grades.

    Volume 2: Red River Gorge South

    This book, Volume 2 of a two-volume series, covers the crags located south of the Mountain Parkway (for the North, click here). Fully revised, it describes over 1500 routes, 400 of them new for this edition. Entirely new zones include Flat Hollow, Bear’s Den, and New Zoo, with new routes at famed RRG favorites such as Muir Valley and the Motherlode.

    Areas and features

    Looking to complete your set of Red River Gorge books? Pick up Volume 1: Northern Region. Want the best of both worlds? Check out our Red River Select.

    Authors

    Ray Ellington has been climbing in the Red for 30 years, has done four previous editions of this guidebook, and is tired of talking about himself on this page. He lives in Lexington, KY, with his wife and climbing partner Michelle, works as an IT Security Architect, and runs his website redriverclimbing.com. Blake Bowling lives and climbs in the Red River Gorge. He spends his time developing new routes, working for the AAC, maintaining his site badbolts.com, a nationwide bolt database where rock climbers can report bolts and anchors that need attention. He also is AMGA-certified, and works closely with the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition to promote safe climbing and protect access for all climbers. Over the past 25 years Blake has ticked over 2000 routes in the Red, holding the top position in the rankings on redriverclimbing.com. Epic 14-hour solo adventure races, high-angle swiftwater and cave rescues, and van life are not foreign to him, but writing in the third person is. You can find Blake in and around the Red River Gorge, adding to his massive tick list, dusting off boulders, and replacing crappy climbing anchors.

    Details

    • Red River Gorge South
    • 2017 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Ray Ellington and Blake Bowling
    • 360 full-color pages
    • 9781938393273
  • About the book

    The best climbs at the entire Red River Gorge, all in one volume!

    Visiting the Red and need a quick list of classics? On a budget and want to buy one book instead of three? Own all three but want a quick reference to the best climbs for a quick trip? Or do you love collecting sweet climbing guidebooks and need to see more inspiring action photos? Then Red River Gorge Select is perfect for you! The Red River Gorge has over 3,000 routes, and Red Select presents enough classics to fill a lifetime of weekend fun. With over 54 crag's worth of routes, you'll have plenty of areas to choose from if you need to escape crowds, rain, or cold.

    Inside the book find handy icons to help plan your day: driving times, walking times, sun exposure, rain protection, and even kid friendliness. You will quickly learn how many routes there are, their grades, and percentage of sport vs trad climbs. GPS coordinates and detailed approach directions help you find your destination easily. Now all there is to do is climb!

    Areas and features

    • Northern Gorge- Military, Left Flank, Funk Rock City, and more
    • Natural Bridge- Roadside, The Zoo, and more
    • Muir Valley- Midnight Surf, Bruise Brother's, Solarium, and more
    • Southern Region- Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, Solar Collector, Gold Coast, Gallery, Drive-by, Bob Marley, and more
    • Miller Fork- Infirmary, Fruit Wall, Cloud 9, Graveyard, and more
    • Handy infographics about each crag for quick reference
    Looking for the comprehensive set? Pick up Red River Gorge North and Red River Gorge South.

    Authors

    Born and raised in Slade, KY, Dario Ventura is a true Red River Gorge local. He did his first FA here at the age of 10, with his dad Miguel and RRG legend John Bronaugh and John's son Alex. From this early start, he has moved on to do many more first ascents in the area, especially at Miller Fork. Like his dad, he's got pizza in his blood, and from an early age has been an integral part of the Miguel's Pizza business. He and the rest of the Venturas have made the Red what it is with their ability to bring climbers together from around the world. Dario knows the Red as if it has been his backyard his whole life, which in fact it has. Mike Williams, assistant wordsmith, researcher, and project manager for this book, is a New River Gorge climber, and author of the guidebook for that area. A longtime editor of Deadpoint magazine until that fine publication's demise, he has climbed extensively in the Red, and his love of the area and attention to detail were essential in making this book what it is. Mike lives in Fayetteville, WV, with his wife Elissa and children Hazel and Elliot, where he climbs, writes, and operates Bridge Bound Campers, tricking out Sprinter vans. Ray Ellington has climbed at the Red for 30 years. He first partnered with Wolverine Publishing in 2005 and would go on to write 4 editions of the Red River Gorge guidebook, and self-publish the Miller Fork guide. He lives in Lexington, KY with his wife Michelle and still runs his website redriverclimbing.com.

    Details

    • Red River Gorge Select
    • 2018 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Dario Ventura, Mike Williams, and Ray Ellington
    • 340 full-color pages
    • 9781938393327
  • Sale!

    ************PREORDER ONLY (but save $5)**************

    Books will ship in October

    About the book

    Rifle Mountain Park is one of America's best sport-climbing areas, especially for harder grades. The canyon's limestone cliffs have more than 500 established rock climbs, including some of the most difficult in America. Climbers come from all over the world to challenge themselves on the steep, gymnastic routes. But the canyon is much more than just a crucible for the sport's elite. Rifle rock climbing also features plenty of easier fare, suitable for novices and intermediates. Looking for a dense concentration of 5.13 and 5.14 lines? Check. Or is 5.10 your limit? Check — you'll find good routes at that level, too. No matter what grade you climb, you'll appreciate the unique style of movement produced by the blocky limestone, with sidepulls, slopers, laybacks, and kneebars. Combine this spread of great sport climbs with easy access and amazing camping and you have one of the most convenient climbing destinations anywhere. Rifle: A Climber's Guide, now in its 4th edition, celebrates the climbs, climbers, natural beauty, and vibrant scene of Rifle. Learn about the flora and fauna, as well as the cast of characters responsible for the routes. Learn how to kneebar, and how to have fun falling off your project 100 times! And while you're at it, enjoy the great photography from some of the country's best-known shooters. $1 from the sale of each book goes to the Rifle Climbers' Coalition, a volunteer group that maintains Rifle bolts and anchors. When in Rifle, be sure to check out the hot springs in nearby Glenwood Springs. Nothing like a good soak to ease weary muscles on a rest day.

    Book features

    • all new beta photos and new easier-to-use layout
    • handy color-coded grades for quick reference
    • wonderfully colorful and quirky descriptions
    • over 100 new climbs since the last edition
    • essays from pioneers such as Mike Pont, George Squibb, and young guns like Margo Hayes

    About the author

    Darek Krol sadly passed away in December 2020, at the age of 57, just days after handing off completed drafts of this guide. A native of Poland, he immigrated to Boulder, CO in 1997. He established over 30 routes in the canyon (and ticked 400 overall), and as the de-facto chief climbing steward of the area became known as "mayor of Rifle." Beyond climbing, Darek was a wonderful human being to be around. He made everyone feel known and important, and Rifle feels a little bit colder without his presence. Darek is survived by his "Noble Wife," Anita, and their daughter, Nina.

    Details

    • Rifle: A Climber's Guide (4th edition)
    • 2021 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Darek Krol
    • 304 full-color pages
    • 9781938393419
     
  • About the book

    Riverside Quarry: it's no wilderness area; in fact, it's an old quarry. So why is it one of the premier sport-climbing destinations in Southern California? Simple answer: great climbing. You'll find the usual array of natural granite holds, plus many features that derive from quarrying operations and ... other human activities. Steep, pumpy climbs: check. Old junked cars: check. A good time: check. Riverside Quarry by Louie Anderson is a sport climbing guide to the Riverside Rock Quarry, featuring over 300 routes in this newly revised 2nd edition in full color. Written by the main developer, this guidebook shares the history and the development of the crag, full color photos and topos, route specific profiles of the best routes, bolt counts, standards, amenities, directions, and just about everything a visitor would need to know. The Riverside Quarry has quickly become the premier sport climbing destination in the region. Its cliff line offers superb climbing on steep, featured granite. Unlike other local areas, the routes here are long; many of them over 100 feet in length. Not only will you find sport climbing, but a handful of excellent quality crack challenges as well. With over 338 routes to choose from, there is literally something for everyone. All of this on a crag that's centrally located to all of Southern California, and with one of the shortest approaches around. PLEASE NOTE: As of 2019, Riverside Quarry climbing is temporarily closed. See the Southern California Climbers' Coalition for more

    About the author

    Louie Anderson has been climbing since the age of 8. In the years since, he's done it all from boulders to big walls. However, his main interest is in developing new routes, and he has developed many of the routes in this guide. He has also developed routes in areas like Frustration Creek and the Santa Monicas; check out his guidebooks for there as well!

    Details

    • Climber's Guide: Riverside Quarry
    • 2012 Louie Anderson
    • by Louie Anderson
    • 200 full-color pages
    • 9780976663003
  • Sale!

    About the book

    Roca Verde ships from the USA! This is the second edition of the Roca Verde climbing guidebook to the Cordillera Cantabrica climbing area of Northwest Spain. It covers Asturias, Cantabria and Leon, and includes the best routes within these regions. With over 50 crags, 239 sectors and nearly 3500 routes; an overview of the bouldering; links to videos and over 200 full colour action photos this is the definitive guide to the Roca Verde region. Select guide in both English and Spanish. Learn more about the region, this book, and its author in this 2017 Rock and Ice article by Bobbi Bensman. Note: Due to a recently-released third edition, this is on sale for $30.

    Details

    • Roca Verde (2nd edition)
    • 2016 Richie Patterson
    • 512 full-color pages
    • 978-0992887421
  • About the book

    Southern California Rock Climbing is volume 2 of the California Road Trip series by Maximus Press. This selected guidebook covers Joshua Tree, Tahquitz and Suicide, Riverside Quarry, New Jack City, Mount Woodson, Malibu Creek, Stoney Point, Gibraltar Rocks — you name it. This select guide takes you to over 60 climbing areas from the middle of the Golden State to the Mexican border. Intended as a complement to California Road Trip: A Climber's Guide to Northern Californiathese two tomes will provide info on a whopping 3000 routes over 160 areas in the Golden State. This volume alone will provide a lifetime of climbing: from alpine to oceanside, from desert to urban, the diversity of Southern California rock climbing will impress even the best-traveled veteran.

    About the author

    Tom Slater has been climbing for over 30 years and has authored several other CA climbing guides. He has logged over 150 of his own FAs, and has climbed boulders to big walls all over the US and Europe. An English teacher, he spends his free time traveling, surfing, and hanging out with his wife and kids in their home on the Central CA coast.

    Details

    • Southern California Rock Climbing
    • 2013 Maximus Press
    • by Tom Slater
    • 360 full-color pages
    • 9780982498811
  • About the book

    Most people think of Los Angeles, California as being a giant area of urban sprawl. Surprisingly, just west of the city lie the Santa Monica mountains along the coast, and this oasis holds some great climbing. Sport Climbing in the Santa Monicas sheds light on this urban escape. Loads of sport climbs, some as hard as 5.14, are scattered all throughout the hillsides, providing LA climbers with no excuse not to get after it! This is the 3rd edition, all newly updated and expanded with great photography and easy-to-use maps and directions.

    Areas featured

    • Echo Cliffs
    • Malibu Creek
    • Boney Bluff
    • Tick Rock
    • Topanga Canyon
    • Corpse Wall
    • Bee Rock

    About the author

    Louie Anderson has been climbing since the age of 8. In the years since, he's done it all from boulders to big walls. However, his main interest is in developing new routes, and he has developed many of the routes in this guide. He has also developed routes in areas like Frustration Creek and Riverside Quarry; check out his guidebooks for there as well! Todd Fertig, a Colorado Native, has been climbing since 1991. He moved to LA in 2003 for law school, and now works as a tax attorney. Todd also enjoys route development, and climbs year-round having given up on skiing claiming he is "too old". When not climbing, he enjoys spending time with his son Bodhi and his partner Kristen.

    Details

    • Sport Climbing in the Santa Monicas
    • 2018 Louie Anderson
    • by Louie Anderson and Todd Fertig
    • 272 full-color pages
    • 9780976663027
     
  • About the book

    Ten Sleep Canyon is home to some of the best sport climbing, anywhere. As if that's not enough, it's also in a beautiful mountain setting. Ten Sleep is located in a canyon within the Bighorn Mountains in north central Wyoming, and has over 1,000 routes. Conveniently, there is a road in the canyon, so most routes are within a 15 minute walk from your car. The rock is dolomite, which is a type of limestone that produces some great holds. Most of the routes in this book are protected with bolts, but there are even a few traditional lines. The book has everything you need. You can find your way around easily with abundant maps and cliff photos. Sun and shade info helps you have the best experience. Lots of action photos make for eye candy on rest days. There are even full-spread route profiles featuring a few action photos on the same route. The introduction is loaded with helpful tips and information about climbing at Ten Sleep Canyon, such as local amenities, rock info, history, area hazards, and driving distances.

    Author info

    Louie Anderson has been climbing at Ten Sleep Canyon since 1998, and is passionate about investing his own time and resources developing new routes and areas in the area. He and his wife Valerie own and operate the Ten Sleep Rock Ranch, which is a great base for your climbing trip at Ten Sleep. Learn more and reserve your site in advance by visiting their website.

    Details

    • Ten Sleep Canyon Climbing 1st edition
    • 2019 Louie Anderson
    • by Louie Anderson
    • 464 full color pages
    • 9780976663034

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