• About the book

    Jackson Falls in Southern Illinois is an unlikely gem. Situated in a quiet portion of the Shawnee National Forest, this area hosts 450+ routes on some fantastic sandstone, and there is even a few good boulder problems scattered about. Jackson Falls: A Guide to Southern Illinois' Best Kept Secret is your indispensable guide to every route, bar none. With plenty of action photography to keep you psyched and easy-to-use maps to get you where you need to go, plus all the local beta, this book will make your trip to this Midwest locale as smooth as can be. Now you can focus on the best part: the climbing!

    About the author

    Yusuf Daneshyar was born and raised in nearby St. Louis, MO and was introduced to climbing in 2004. He spent most of his formative climbing years at Jackson Falls. Eventually he traveled around to plenty of other climbing areas, which only validated his opinion that the best sport climbing in the country could be found in a little canyon in Southern Illinois.

    Details

    • Jackson Falls
    • 2014 Brayackmedia Publishing
    • by Yusuf Daneshyar
    • 264 full-color pages
    • 9780990782100
  • About the book

    Redwood Burl is a compact yet comprehensive guide to the extensive climbing in Northwest California. The college town of Arcata is the center of a universe of incredible but little-known cragging and bouldering. Sea cliffs, sea lions, river-polished boulders, towering redwoods, hidden limestone caves, and enough climbing to keep you busy for a lifetime. It’s a paradise. For years, road-tripping climbers in the know have visited the limestone of the Trinity Arêtes and the overhanging seaside pockets of Promontory, declaring them some of the best sport crags in CA. This book fully documents these gems, and introduces dozens of other excellent cliffs that have hidden under the radar ... until now! There's a lot packed into this guidebook. You'll find maps to keep you oriented, icons depicting sun and rain aspects, hiking approach times, geology and ecology info, gorgeous color photography, and enough beta on bouldering, sport, and trad climbing to keep you busy whether you're just visiting the area or a seasoned local. $1 of each book sale is donated to the Northwest California Climbers Coalition, whose mission is to preserve and expand local climbing opportunities. Please visit their website at nwca-climbers.org, and feel free to pitch in, any way you can!

    Areas included

    • Coastal areas from Arcata to Crescent City, including Moonstone Beach, Sue-meg (formerly Patricks Point) State Park, Lost Rocks, Promontory
    • More Highway 101 fun down south, Santa Rosa to Arcata
    • 80 pages of Highway 299 crags - Land of the Lost, Cold Springs, Trinity Arêtes, and many more
    • Sweet Highway 36 and Highway 3 crags including the Caverns, Hayfork Haven, Marble Caves
    • The adventurous Siskiyou County region including Cecilville Bluffs and Lovers Leap limestone
    • Many previously undocumented crags, and adventures galore!

    About the author

    Evan Wisheropp has an almost unreasonable love for climbing and insatiable desire to open new climbs. In his quest to explore everything that Northwest California has to offer, he has climbed over 1300 local routes (over 80% of the routes in this book), as well as cleaned, developed, bolted, or rebolted over 400 routes. This is truly a labor of love — he has invested over $20,000 into the climbing infrastructure described in this guide! Evan isn't always out getting dirty with his power drill. He also works his camera to create beautiful imagery, which brings the guidebook to life. You can see some of his professional work here. He and wife Amanda work and live in Arcata. If you see a guy with a drill, say hey! It might be Evan.

    Details

    Redwood Burl: A Climber’s Guide to Northwest California
    2022 Wolverine Publishing
    by Evan Wisheropp
    396 full color pages
    9781938393464
    Need more on Northern California? Check out California Roadtrip!
  • About the book

    Wisconsin's Devil’s Lake State Park is, hands down, the Midwest’s premier rock-climbing area. With its many, many routes in the more moderate grades, and the wide range of techniques required to ascend them, it has even been called the best place in the country to learn to climb. Located just northwest of Madison, it is the closest major crag for countless Midwest climbers, from Chicago to Des Moines, Milwaukee to the Twin Cities. The Lake also features great hiking, swimming, and camping. The unique quartzite rock is a wonder of nature, notable for its vibrant purple color and made-to-climb texture. From ladder-like beginner’s romps, to strenuous crack leads, to desperate glassy faces, you’ll find something perfect to suit every mood. There are no bolts at Devil’s Lake, and though the bullet-hard stone offers many fine lead climbs, toproping is widely practiced, leading to a fun, community atmosphere where climbers can test themselves to the limit with minimal risk and maximum focus on precision movement. Check out this website by the local guide service for tips on setting up toprope anchors at Devil's Lake. Mastery of small holds is a hallmark of Lake-trained rock climbers who venture out to other areas of the country. Your training will serve you well! In addition to describing almost 900 climbs at all the cliffs of Devil’s Lake State Park, this book also devotes over 20 pages on two nearby areas, Necedah and Hillbilly Hollow, which feature a different kind of rock, and even a little bolted sport climbing and a smattering of the best bouldering.

    Featuring

    • Almost 1000 rock climbs
    • the 40 best boulder problems
    • Area maps and schematics
    • Geology, flora, and fauna
    • Detailed climbing history
    • Guide to park rules, camping options, and local amenities
    • Colorful essays by John Gill, Leo Hermacinski, Steve Sangdahl, Nick Rhoads, and others
    • Dozens of inspring action photos

    Areas included in Devil's Lake

    • East Bluff
    • West Bluff
    • Sandstone Bluff
    • Necedah
    • Hillbilly Hollow

    About the Author

    Jay Knower, 38, grew up in Baraboo, WI, with Devil’s Lake in his backyard, and began climbing there as a teenager in 1993. This introduction to rock climbing did the trick, and he has gone on to visit crags all over the world, climbing up to 5.13a trad and 5.14a sport and establishing many new routes. Jay met his wife Kayte in Yosemite’s Camp 4, and the couple moved to New Hampshire together in 2003 and have lived there ever since — though Jay makes it a point to get back to Devil’s Lake at least once a year to visit family and test himself on his beloved home quartzite. Jay holds a B.A. in English and an M.Ed. in English Education, and has worked in education his entire adult life. His writing has appeared in Climbing Magazine, The Canadian Alpine Journal, and The New Hampshire Journal of Education. A lifelong runner, Jay has completed two marathons, and every year he threatens to run another one (but doesn’t). He currently lives in Campton, New Hampshire, with Kayte, their daughter June, and Topher the Mountain Poodle.

    Details

    • Devil's Lake: A Climbing Guide
    • 2016 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Jay Knower
    • 308 full-color pages
    • 9781938393259
  • About the book

    The Shawangunks — “the Gunks” to most of us — is one of the oldest climbing areas in the US, with a storied history dating back to the 1930s. Located 80 miles north of New York City, it has long been a focal point of rock-climbing culture, and remains a traditional climber’s paradise. There is no shortage of very difficult routes that will challenge the best climbers, but the Gunks is even more famous for its incredible easier climbs. You could spend several seasons exploring made-to-climb cracks, faces, overhangs, and dihedrals without ever venturing beyond the 5.7 grade! Multi-pitch outings abound, and the graded carriage road at the base of the cliffs allows easy strolls to even the most distant ends of the cliff.
    This full-color, ruthlessly researched guide represents the “next generation” of Gunks guidebooks. It covers over 600 routes at the two main cliffs: the Trapps and Near Trapps. Cliff-base photos get you quickly oriented on the ground, and high-resolution aerial images show key features on routes. Detailed area and route descriptions help you find just the right flavor of climb. You’ll spend less time searching, and more time pulling overhangs, plugging cams, and chasing your own piece of history.

    Areas and features

    • Trapps — Keyhole to Slime Wall (21 sectors)
    • Near Trapps — right end to Workout Wall (3 sectors)
    • Aerial cliff photos
    • Cliff-base photos
    • Trailhead-locator photos
    • Helpful sector summaries for choosing where to climb 
    • Action photography from past and present eras
    • Detailed regional and climbing history
    • Biographical essays of 10 famed Gunks climbers
    • Graded list of routes
    Looking for more? Gunks Bouldering describes over 600 boulder problems.

    Authors

    Andy Salo grew up outside Rochester, New York, and began climbing at age 14. He first visited the Gunks soon after, and moved there full time in 2004. Andy’s hard Gunks first ascents are local lore, including Brozone (5.14a), Over the Moon (5.13c), Fire Gild (5.13c R), Corkscrew Roof (V12), Chaotic Stability (V10), and Ideas Are Bulletproof (V10). Having recently relocated to Burlington, VT, he’s super proud of this project and is forever grateful to the Gunks. He is also author of Gunks Bouldering. Christian Fracchia grew up in Glens Falls, New York. A lifelong climber with 36 years of Gunks experience, he spent his formative years climbing rock and ice in the Gunks, Catskills, Adirondacks, and White Mountains before settling in New Paltz in 2000. A high-school physics teacher, Christian has also devoted his summers to climbing around the world, most recently spending his time in the Dolomites of Italy. He is the author and creator of Gunks Apps. His notable Gunks first ascents include The Zoomulator (5.12a), Word of Mouth (5.12b), Indiana Jones (5.12a X), Future Shock Direct (5.12c R/X) in the Trapps, and The Past Recaptured (5.12a), at Millbrook, his favorite Gunks cliff. An architect and designer by education, Eric Ratkowski grew up in Detroit, Michigan, and has climbed in the Gunks for 14 years, guiding professionally for 6 of those. His community contributions include editing for the AAC’s Accidents in North American Climbing and working as a ranger at the Mohonk Preserve. Eric has climbed in eight countries and four continents. He’s climbed and guided at a hundred different areas in the United States, and claims to have “never climbed anything of note.”

    Details

    • Gunks Climbing
    • 2021 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Andy Salo, Christian Fracchia, and Eric Ratkowski 
    • 468 full-color pages
    • 9781938393389
  • About the book

    The 11th edition of the comprehensive Owens River Gorge Climbs is an indispensable resource for a great trip to California's premier basalt sport-climbing area, the Owens River Gorge. Written by longtime local Marty Lewis, this latest edition features over 900 climbs and many color action shots, both modern and historical, featuring rock stars of the day. There are maps, cliff photos, and hand-drawn topos to help you find your pick of climbs easily, as well as helpful lists of local amenities. Details like elevation, approach times, and the number and grade range of climbs at the beginning of each chapter will help with planning. A collection of essays written by notable Owens Valley Gorge climbers and route developers is sure to entertain during those long evenings at camp. Bishop is located in the Owens Valley of the Eastern Sierra. It's a great destination for a climbing trip at any time of the year, and Maximus Press publishes a selection of guidebooks that have you covered for all seasons. While the Owens Valley Gorge is best visited in the Spring and Fall, sometimes conditions permit climbing in the hotter and colder months. Check out Mammoth Area Rock Climbs and The Good, the Great, and the Awesome for some great summer climbing. Check out the Bishop Visitor Information website for a little more information and suggestions for climbing at the Gorge. You can also buy souvenirs right off their website if you don't feel like taking time for shopping while in Bishop.

    About the author

    Marty Lewis has been climbing at Owens River Gorge since 1989. During this time, he has climbed many of the routes there, and even established a few of them himself. He runs Maximus Press, and publishes several other guidebooks in the local area, as well as around California. He lives near Bishop with wife Sharon, and a couple of canine friends.

    Details

    • Owens River Gorge Climbs 11th edition
    • 2018 Maximus Press
    • by Marty Lewis
    • 388 color pages.
    • 9780982498842
  • About the book

    Rifle Mountain Park is one of America's best sport-climbing areas, especially for harder grades. The canyon's limestone cliffs have more than 500 established rock climbs, including some of the most difficult in America. Climbers come from all over the world to challenge themselves on the steep, gymnastic routes. But the canyon is much more than just a crucible for the sport's elite. Rifle rock climbing also features plenty of easier fare, suitable for novices and intermediates. Looking for a dense concentration of 5.13 and 5.14 lines? Check. Or is 5.10 your limit? Check — you'll find good routes at that level, too. No matter what grade you climb, you'll appreciate the unique style of movement produced by the blocky limestone, with sidepulls, slopers, laybacks, and kneebars. Combine this spread of great sport climbs with easy access and amazing camping and you have one of the most convenient climbing destinations anywhere. Rifle: A Climber's Guide, now in its 4th edition, celebrates the climbs, climbers, natural beauty, and vibrant scene of Rifle. Learn about the flora and fauna, as well as the cast of characters responsible for the routes. Learn how to kneebar, and how to have fun falling off your project 100 times! And while you're at it, enjoy the great photography from some of the country's best-known shooters. $1 from the sale of each book goes to the Rifle Climbers' Coalition, a volunteer group that maintains Rifle bolts and anchors. When in Rifle, be sure to check out the hot springs in nearby Glenwood Springs. Nothing like a good soak to ease weary muscles on a rest day.

    Book features

    • all new beta photos and new easier-to-use layout
    • handy color-coded grades for quick reference
    • wonderfully colorful and quirky descriptions
    • over 100 new climbs since the last edition
    • essays from pioneers such as Mike Pont, George Squibb, and young guns like Margo Hayes

    About the author

    Darek Krol sadly passed away in December 2020, at the age of 57, just days after handing off completed drafts of this guide. A native of Poland, he immigrated to Boulder, CO in 1997. He established over 30 routes in the canyon (and ticked 400 overall), and as the de-facto chief climbing steward of the area became known as "mayor of Rifle." Beyond climbing, Darek was a wonderful human being to be around. He made everyone feel known and important, and Rifle feels a little bit colder without his presence. Darek is survived by his "Noble Wife," Anita, and their daughter, Nina.

    Details

    • Rifle: A Climber's Guide (4th edition)
    • 2021 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Darek Krol
    • 304 full-color pages
    • 9781938393419
     
  • About the book

    You’ve probably seen photos of the spectacular limestone walls of the Fins, renowned for their big, clean, hard sport lines. Idaho Underground is their big debut. But that is just the tip of the Idaho potato — more than 20 other southern Idaho crags are covered here, near Boise, Twin Falls, and the Sun Valley area. Locals and a few savvy visitors have long known about the truly “underground” areas such as Boise’s Black Cliffs, Dierkes Lake, Leslie Gulch, and more — including the crazy Lava Caves, with juggy, upside-down climbing set beneath windswept sage flats.  Dave Bingham, Godfather of Idaho climbing, put out the B&W first edition of this guide in 2012; with hundreds of new climbs to share, this color guide really showcases them! Check out this video from La Sportiva if you want to see the beautiful Fins (and the second ascent of a 5.14d).

    Some of the areas covered

    • The Fins
    • Boise’s Black Cliffs
    • Table Rock
    • Leslie Gulch
    • Dierkes Lake
    • Teddy Bear Cove
    • Ramshorn Canyon
    • Lava Caves
    • The Channel

    Idaho Underground Features

    • Over 1500 climbs, — sport, trad, multi-pitch, and bouldering
    • Durable, sewn binding
    • Lots of helpful regional information
    • Drone-assisted cliff imagery of the Fins
    • Essays by Jonny Woodward, Jonathan Siegrist, Tedd Thompson, and more
    • $1 from every book sold goes to local climbing organizations

    About the author

    In addition to Idaho Underground, Dave Bingham is also the author of several editions of the ever-popular City of Rocks guidebooks. He grew up in the Northeast, learning to ski and climb there before moving out West in the 1970s and settling near Sun Valley, Idaho. In addition to his impressive roster of FAs, his is an accomplished endurance athlete, with many wins in mountain-running and Nordic ski races. Check out the City of Rocks website entry for more details on his remarkable achievements. Dave lives in Hailey with his wife Lisa, where he runs a log-home chinking business, Dave Bingham Chinking.

    Details

    • Idaho Underground
    • 2019 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Dave Bingham
    • 316 full-color pages
    • 9781938393358
  • About the book

    A Climber’s Guide to Big Bear Lake and Holcomb Valley Pinnacles is the essential guide to climbing near Big Bear Lake in California’s San Bernardino Mountains. It features over 1000 trad and sport routes! You’ll even find a little bouldering too. The most popular climbing area here is the famed Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, loved for its steep, well-featured, granite sport climbs. The Pinnacles are covered in full detail, but if you want to do some social distancing, there is beta here for scores of crags where you might not see a single person. Moderate sport climbs may have put Big Bear on the map, but there is something perfect here for everyone, from easy slabs, to remote pinnacles, to trad cracks of all kinds. Awesome camping abounds. While most people think of summer climbing at Big Bear, fall and even winter climbing is easy to find. The pine-covered hills, quaint mountain town, and expansive lake offer all kinds of rest-day fun. With never-before-published crags, extensive maps, and new routes for every skill level, this full-color, comprehensive guidebook promises years of climbing adventures in LA’s backyard.

    Areas included

    • Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
    • Lakeside crags including Castle Rock and Fisherman’s Buttress
    • Fawnskin area including Hanna Rocks and Holcomb Creek
    • Grapevine Canyon area, including Butt Rock
    • Black Bluff and Siberia Creek
    • North Shore Boulders

    Author

    Brandon Copp’s other job is aerospace engineer, and he has applied that same careful attention to detail in this guidebook. You’ll appreciate that when you’re looking for precise driving directions to a remote crag, or the respective grades of each of three variations to a route at your favorite Holcomb crag. What you won’t find is drab writing  — Copp’s love of the area shines through bright and clear. Learn more about Brandon and wife Jackie and their adventures in their travel blog, Go Escape The Ordinary.

    Details

    • Big Bear Lake & Holcomb Valley Pinnacles 1st edition
    • 2020 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Brandon Copp
    • 364 full color pages
    • 9781938393372
  • About the book

    The New River Gorge of West Virginia is one of the most dramatic canyons in the East. It’s famous for its whitewater rafting, the BASE-jumping extravaganza of “Bridge Day,” and, of course, its world-class rock climbing. New River Gorge climbing is a unique combination of excellent, historic trad and equally excellent, historic sport. Unlike its main “rival” crag, Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, the New holds equal lure for both trad and sport climbers. No surprise to the tradsters: the Nuttall Sandstone is harder than granite and riddled with excellent cracks of all sizes. Fair enough, say the sportsters, but the bolted climbing is some of the best and most varied anywhere! The specialty of the house is technical climbing that will test your ingenuity, footwork, and finger strength, but there are plenty of massively overhanging sectors for those who just want to grab big holds and pull. There is so much climbing in the New that we’ve had to split it into two volumes, each with a lifetime’s worth of routes to explore.

    Volume 2 – The Meadow, Gauley, and Summersville Lake

    This volume documents the climbing north of the main gorge of the New, with over 1400 routes on the crags along the Meadow and Gauley rivers and surrounding Summersville Lake. Many of the crags here are close to fine swimming holes, making them favorites for summer climbing. The Coliseum at the Lake is arguably the most sought-after hardperson’s crag in the entire region, and as of 2021 now boasts the hardest sport climb in the East. Just a short stroll away is Orange Oswald, likely the most popular 5.10 sport crag in the New. And the steep, psychedelic rock of the Meadow must be seen to be believed. Endless climbing! But of course, you won’t want to miss the fantastic crags of the main gorge — see New River Rock Volume 1.

    Areas covered

    • Meadow South Side
    • Lower Meadow
    • Upper Meadow
    • Summersville Lake main area
    • Whippoorwill
    • Long Point
    • Gauley Crag
    • Carnifex Ferry

    Featuring

    • premium sewn binding
    • entertaining route descriptions
    • up-to-date beta on over 1400 routes
    • detailed history
    • camping and apres-climb stuff
    • inspiring color photos

    The Author

    Mike Williams learned to climb on the granite domes of North Carolina, but felt the pull of West Virginia’s Nuttall Sandstone after his first trips to the New in the late ’90s. He then toured around the US in a VW van looking for the best rock climbing before finally realizing it was back where he started, at the New River Gorge. He has since become an active route developer there. Mike has worked as a wilderness instructor, climbing guide, rigger, author, editor for Deadpoint Magazine, and guidebook project manager. He now runs Bridge Bound Campers, converting cargo vans into luxury road-trip machines. He lives in Fayetteville with his wife Elissa, children Hazel and Elliott, and crag dog Lilah. You can contact Mike at mikey@newriverclimbing.net or just stop by Bridge Bound Campers at 131 S Court Street to talk about his two passions — rock climbing and van dwelling. $1 per book sale goes straight to the local climber's org, New River Alliance of Climbers.

    Details

    • New River Rock Volume 2, 3rd edition
    • 2021 Wolverine Publishing
    • By Mike Williams
    • 328 full-color pages
    • 978193839402
  • About the book

    The City of Rocks and Castle Rocks State Park is your essential companion for the amazing granite climbing in the high desert of southern Idaho, one of the most popular summer rock-climbing areas in the Rocky Mountain West. Other landmarks have been christened “City of Rocks,” but to climbers this one is THE City. It’s been called America’s premiere granite sport-climbing area — and just as often praised for its unique trad climbing. With more than 1000 routes to choose from, you can crimp overhanging patina, grunt up an offwidth, cruise a multi-pitch 5.8, or summit a dramatic spire — all within a short walk of your campsite. Nearby you’ll find historic inscriptions, hikes, mountain biking, and the funky Western town of Almo to keep you supplied and entertained on rest days. Also included here for the first time is the sweet climbing at nearby Castle Rocks State Park. With a different, quieter vibe than the roadside crags in the City, Castle Rocks is a worthy destination in itself, with over 300 routes up to three pitches long, featuring many moderate climbs with a more “modern,” novice-friendly equipping style. Dave Bingham has been chronicling the climbing at City of Rocks since the 1980s, but this is the breakthrough edition, with full-color cliff photographs throughout and excellent maps that put an end to the days of wandering lost in search of your desired crag. The action photography alone will have you planning your trip immediately.

    Areas included

    • City of Rocks
    • Castle Rocks State Park

    About the author

    Born on Long Island, NY, Dave Bingham spent his childhood in the Northeast, learning to ski and climb in his early teens before moving out West in the 1970s. He spent summers in Yosemite and winters near Sun Valley, Idaho, guiding rock and teaching cross-country skiing and soon making his permanent home in the Sun Valley area. Dave lives in Hailey, with his wife Lisa, where he runs a log-home chinking business, Dave Bingham Chinking. He still drags out his college-age-and-younger children Tara, Cameron, Jack, and Kate on a variety of mountain adventures. Dave’s curriculum vitae in adventure sports is impressive: a lifelong athlete and competitor, he has won many Nordic ski and running races in Idaho, and has placed as high as 3rd (1980) in the famous Pikes Peak Marathon. In 1988 and 1990 he won the notorious NBC Survival of the Fittest contest, an old-school, now-defunct version of today’s American Ninja Warrior — but held outside in much more dangerous terrain, featuring stunts such as speed rappelling, whitewater swimming, downhill running, and a log-rolling/stick-fighting battle thing. Dave went on to enter the even more grueling BBC Arctic Survival comp, winning in 1990 and 1992. Dave also set the speed record for ascending all nine of Idaho’s peaks over 12,000 feet: 38 hours, besting the previous record by two days (check out the current record holders). On the rock-climbing front, Dave is a longtime and prolific new-router, with over 200 first ascents up to 5.13, spread over 30+ years, in the City of Rocks alone. Though an “early adopter” of the sport-climbing ethic in the mid 1980s, Dave is a true all-arounder, with many trad ascents in the City, the Elephant’s Perch in the Sawtooths, and farther afield. Though still putting up new routes, Dave is now more of a mentor on the Idaho climbing scene. In addition to authoring eight editions of the climber’s guide to City of Rocks, Dave is also the author of Idaho Underground, an eclectic guide to southern Idaho crags and boulders.

    Details

    • City of Rocks
    • 2016 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Dave Bingham
    • 312 full-color pages
    • 9781938393242
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    About the book

    The Red River Gorge of Kentucky is one of the most enjoyable places in the world to climb. The Red River and its many tributaries have carved dozens of secluded canyons into the hill country east and south of Lexington, creating a natural wonderland and exposing a ridiculous amount of rock. The cliffs of the Red feature over 3000 routes, from traditional cracks to modern sport climbs, ranging from 5.4 to 5.14. More than enough to go around! But what makes Red River Gorge climbing unique is the wildly featured Corbin sandstone. Simply put, it's made to climb. The walls tend to be super-steep, but the holds are large and plentiful. You don't have to climb 5.12 get on crazy-steep rock here! Of course, if harder sport climbs are your thing, there is a lifetime's worth here. It is the most popular place in the eastern US to work your way up the grades.

    Volume 2: Red River Gorge South

    This book, Volume 2 of a two-volume series, covers the crags located south of the Mountain Parkway. Fully revised, it describes over 1500 routes, 400 of them new for this edition. Entirely new zones include Flat Hollow, Bear’s Den, and New Zoo, with new routes at famed RRG favorites such as Muir Valley and the Motherlode.

    Areas and features

    Authors

    Ray Ellington has been climbing in the Red for 30 years, has done four previous editions of this guidebook, and is tired of talking about himself on this page. He lives in Lexington, KY, with his wife and climbing partner Michelle, works as an IT Security Architect, and runs his website redriverclimbing.com. Blake Bowling lives and climbs in the Red River Gorge. He spends his time developing new routes, working for the AAC, maintaining his site badbolts.com, a nationwide bolt database where rock climbers can report bolts and anchors that need attention. He also is AMGA-certified, and works closely with the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition to promote safe climbing and protect access for all climbers. Over the past 25 years Blake has ticked over 2000 routes in the Red, holding the top position in the rankings on redriverclimbing.com. Epic 14-hour solo adventure races, high-angle swiftwater and cave rescues, and van life are not foreign to him, but writing in the third person is. You can find Blake in and around the Red River Gorge, adding to his massive tick list, dusting off boulders, and replacing crappy climbing anchors.

    Details

    • Red River Gorge South
    • 2017 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Ray Ellington and Blake Bowling
    • 360 full-color pages
    • 9781938393273
  • About New River Rock Vol 1

    The New River Gorge of West Virginia is one of the most dramatic canyons in the East. It’s famous for its whitewater rafting, the BASE-jumping extravaganza of “Bridge Day,” and, of course, its world-class rock climbing. New River Gorge climbing is a unique combination of excellent, historic trad and equally excellent, historic sport. Unlike its main “rival” crag, Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, the New holds equal allure for both trad and sport climbers. No surprise to the tradsters: the Nuttall Sandstone is harder than granite and riddled with excellent cracks of all sizes. Fair enough, say the sportsters, but the bolted climbing is some of the best and most varied anywhere! The specialty of the house is technical climbing that will test your ingenuity, footwork, and finger strength, but there are plenty of massively overhanging sectors for those who just want to grab big holds and pull. There is so much climbing in the New that we’ve had to split it into two volumes, each with a lifetime’s worth of routes to explore.

    Volume 1 – The Main Gorge

    This volume documents the heart of New River Gorge climbing, the crags of the main gorge. You’ll find all the beta for more than 1900 climbing routes on the immaculate sandstone walls of this beautiful river canyon. Endless climbing! (But while you’re in the area, you won’t want to miss the Meadow and Summersville Lake – the newest edition of  Vol 2 released in July 2021).

    Areas covered

    • Kaymoor
    • Bubba City
    • Beauty Mountain
    • Junkyard
    • Bridge Buttress
    • Fern Buttress
    • Endless Wall
    • South Nuttall
    • Domino Point
    • Sunshine Buttress
    • Keeney’s Buttress
    • Ambassador Buttress
    • Cotton Top
    • Needleseye (access and overview only)

    Featuring

    • premium sewn binding
    • entertaining route descriptions
    • up-to-date beta on over 1900 routes
    • detailed history
    • camping and apres-climb stuff
    • inspiring color photos

    The Author

    Mike Williams learned to climb on the granite domes of North Carolina, but felt the pull of West Virginia’s Nuttall Sandstone after his first trips to the New in the late ’90s. He then toured around the US in a VW van looking for the best rock climbing before finally realizing it was back where he started, at the New River Gorge. He has since become an active route developer there. Mike has worked as a wilderness instructor, climbing guide, rigger, author, editor for Deadpoint Magazine, and guidebook project manager. He now runs Bridge Bound Campers, converting cargo vans into luxury road-trip machines. He lives in Fayetteville with his wife Elissa, children Hazel and Elliott, and crag dog Lilah. You can contact Mike at mikey@newriverclimbing.net or just stop by Bridge Bound Campers at 131 S Court Street to talk about his two passions — rock climbing and van dwelling. $1 per book sale goes straight to the local climber's org, New River Alliance of Climbers.

    Details

    • New River Rock Volume 1, 3rd edition
    • 2019 Wolverine Publishing
    • By Mike Williams
    • 460 full-color pages
    • 978193839341

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