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Gunks Climbing
$50.00
About the book
The Shawangunks — “the Gunks” to most of us — is one of the oldest climbing areas in the US, with a storied history dating back to the 1930s. Located 80 miles north of New York City, it has long been a focal point of rock-climbing culture, and remains a traditional climber’s paradise. There is no shortage of very difficult routes that will challenge the best climbers, but the Gunks is even more famous for its incredible easier climbs. You could spend several seasons exploring made-to-climb cracks, faces, overhangs, and dihedrals without ever venturing beyond the 5.7 grade! Multi-pitch outings abound, and the graded carriage road at the base of the cliffs allows easy strolls to even the most distant ends of the cliff.
This full-color, ruthlessly researched guide represents the “next generation” of Gunks guidebooks. It covers over 600 routes at the two main cliffs: the Trapps and Near Trapps. Cliff-base photos get you quickly oriented on the ground, and high-resolution aerial images show key features on routes. Detailed area and route descriptions help you find just the right flavor of climb. You’ll spend less time searching, and more time pulling overhangs, plugging cams, and chasing your own piece of history.
Areas and features
Trapps — Keyhole to Slime Wall (21 sectors)
Near Trapps — right end to Workout Wall (3 sectors)
Aerial cliff photos
Cliff-base photos
Trailhead-locator photos
Helpful sector summaries for choosing where to climb
Action photography from past and present eras
Detailed regional and climbing history
Biographical essays of 10 famed Gunks climbers
Graded list of routes
Looking for more? Gunks Bouldering describes over 600 boulder problems.
Authors
Andy Salo grew up outside Rochester, New York, and began climbing at age 14. He first visited the Gunks soon after, and moved there full time in 2004. Andy’s hard Gunks first ascents are local lore, including Brozone (5.14a), Over the Moon (5.13c), Fire Gild (5.13c R), Corkscrew Roof (V12), Chaotic Stability (V10), and Ideas Are Bulletproof (V10). Having recently relocated to Burlington, VT, he’s super proud of this project and is forever grateful to the Gunks. He is also author of Gunks Bouldering. Christian Fracchia grew up in Glens Falls, New York. A lifelong climber with 36 years of Gunks experience, he spent his formative years climbing rock and ice in the Gunks, Catskills, Adirondacks, and White Mountains before settling in New Paltz in 2000. A high-school physics teacher, Christian has also devoted his summers to climbing around the world, most recently spending his time in the Dolomites of Italy. He is the author and creator of Gunks Apps. His notable Gunks first ascents include The Zoomulator (5.12a), Word of Mouth (5.12b), Indiana Jones (5.12a X), Future Shock Direct (5.12c R/X) in the Trapps, and The Past Recaptured (5.12a), at Millbrook, his favorite Gunks cliff. An architect and designer by education, Eric Ratkowski grew up in Detroit, Michigan, and has climbed in the Gunks for 14 years, guiding professionally for 6 of those. His community contributions include editing for the AAC’s Accidents in North American Climbing and working as a ranger at the Mohonk Preserve. Eric has climbed in eight countries and four continents. He’s climbed and guided at a hundred different areas in the United States, and claims to have “never climbed anything of note.”
Details
Gunks Climbing
2021 Wolverine Publishing
by Andy Salo, Christian Fracchia, and Eric Ratkowski
468 full-color pages
9781938393389
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Devil’s Lake
$34.00
About the book
Wisconsin's Devil’s Lake State Park is, hands down, the Midwest’s premier rock-climbing area. With its many, many routes in the more moderate grades, and the wide range of techniques required to ascend them, it has even been called the best place in the country to learn to climb. Located just northwest of Madison, it is the closest major crag for countless Midwest climbers, from Chicago to Des Moines, Milwaukee to the Twin Cities. The Lake also features great hiking, swimming, and camping. The unique quartzite rock is a wonder of nature, notable for its vibrant purple color and made-to-climb texture. From ladder-like beginner’s romps, to strenuous crack leads, to desperate glassy faces, you’ll find something perfect to suit every mood. There are no bolts at Devil’s Lake, and though the bullet-hard stone offers many fine lead climbs, toproping is widely practiced, leading to a fun, community atmosphere where climbers can test themselves to the limit with minimal risk and maximum focus on precision movement. Check out this website by the local guide service for tips on setting up toprope anchors at Devil's Lake. Mastery of small holds is a hallmark of Lake-trained rock climbers who venture out to other areas of the country. Your training will serve you well! In addition to describing almost 900 climbs at all the cliffs of Devil’s Lake State Park, this book also devotes over 20 pages on two nearby areas, Necedah and Hillbilly Hollow, which feature a different kind of rock, and even a little bolted sport climbing and a smattering of the best bouldering.
Featuring
Almost 1000 rock climbs
the 40 best boulder problems
Area maps and schematics
Geology, flora, and fauna
Detailed climbing history
Guide to park rules, camping options, and local amenities
Colorful essays by John Gill, Leo Hermacinski, Steve Sangdahl, Nick Rhoads, and others
Dozens of inspring action photos
Areas included in Devil's Lake
East Bluff
West Bluff
Sandstone Bluff
Necedah
Hillbilly Hollow
About the Author
Jay Knower, 38, grew up in Baraboo, WI, with Devil’s Lake in his backyard, and began climbing there as a teenager in 1993. This introduction to rock climbing did the trick, and he has gone on to visit crags all over the world, climbing up to 5.13a trad and 5.14a sport and establishing many new routes. Jay met his wife Kayte in Yosemite’s Camp 4, and the couple moved to New Hampshire together in 2003 and have lived there ever since — though Jay makes it a point to get back to Devil’s Lake at least once a year to visit family and test himself on his beloved home quartzite. Jay holds a B.A. in English and an M.Ed. in English Education, and has worked in education his entire adult life. His writing has appeared in Climbing Magazine, The Canadian Alpine Journal, and The New Hampshire Journal of Education. A lifelong runner, Jay has completed two marathons, and every year he threatens to run another one (but doesn’t). He currently lives in Campton, New Hampshire, with Kayte, their daughter June, and Topher the Mountain Poodle.
Details
Devil's Lake: A Climbing Guide
2016 Wolverine Publishing
by Jay Knower
308 full-color pages
9781938393259
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Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs
$39.00
About the book
You'll find everything you need to have a great time climbing in the 3rd edition of our guidebook, Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs! With adjacent Dream Canyon also covered in the book, it’s an all-season, granite-lover’s paradise. Crags are accessed mere minutes from downtown. Spend an afternoon working on your most recent bolted project, or grapple with multi-pitch traditional climbs up to 400 feet long. There is something for all climbing levels and styles with plenty to choose from, from 5.4 to 5.14. There are even some world-famous boulder problems. You'll be challenged with delicate slabs, splitter cracks, burly roofs, and overhanging walls. Boulder Canyon climbing has it all! This book gives you all the beta you need for over 1800 routes and variations, with improved route photos, extensive new mapping, and the inspiring photography that you expect from Wolverine guides. While you’re enjoying this sweet little canyon you might notice shiny new bolts and remarkable trail work at some of the more popular crags. If you like what you see, join the Boulder Climbing Community to support more essential work in Boulder Canyon!
New crags covered in the 3rd edition of Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs
Solar Dome
Glacier Dome
Lookout and Hideout
Wizard Rock
Loft and High Tower areas
and more!
Authors
(sometimes it just takes a team)
Bob D’Antonio has been climbing since the 1970s. Originally from Philadelphia, he began climbing at the Gunks, soon exploding West in a new-routing frenzy! Colorado areas where Bob contributed heavily include: Garden of the Gods, 11-Mile Canyon, Penitente Canyon, the South Platte, Shelf Road, and Independence Pass. Bob currently lives in Taos, New Mexico, with his wife, Laurel, and is the proud father of three children: Jeremy, Adam, and Rachael. He continues to put up new routes in the Rio Grande gorge near Taos, and is the third-best bird photographer on Facebook.
Jeff Achey spent the best years of his youth climbing in the Boulder area, then went on to a career writing about climbing. He lives with his wife Amber Johnstone in western Colorado, where he splits his free time between bolting chossy cliffs and directing the creative at Wolverine Publishing.
Adam Brink has spent over two decades climbing and guiding in Boulder Canyon. He lives in Boulder with wife Jessica Jaret, and is dad to two amazing kids, Willa and Nico.
Peter Beal has been bouldering in the canyon over a decade. Besides climbing and his day job as a professor of art history at Front Range Community College, he works on painting, photography, and electric guitar, as well as writing. Peter lives out in eastern Boulder County with his wife Caolan and daughter Sophia.
Details
2017 Wolverine Publishing
3rd edition
by Bob D’Antonio, Jeff Achey, Adam Brink, Peter Beal.
380 full color pages
9781938393280
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Jackson Falls
$39.99
About the book
Jackson Falls in Southern Illinois is an unlikely gem. Situated in a quiet portion of the Shawnee National Forest, this area hosts 450+ routes on some fantastic sandstone, and there is even a few good boulder problems scattered about. Jackson Falls: A Guide to Southern Illinois' Best Kept Secret is your indispensable guide to every route, bar none. With plenty of action photography to keep you psyched and easy-to-use maps to get you where you need to go, plus all the local beta, this book will make your trip to this Midwest locale as smooth as can be. Now you can focus on the best part: the climbing!
About the author
Yusuf Daneshyar was born and raised in nearby St. Louis, MO and was introduced to climbing in 2004. He spent most of his formative climbing years at Jackson Falls. Eventually he traveled around to plenty of other climbing areas, which only validated his opinion that the best sport climbing in the country could be found in a little canyon in Southern Illinois.
Details
Jackson Falls
2014 Brayackmedia Publishing
by Yusuf Daneshyar
264 full-color pages
9780990782100
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Redwood Burl
$45.00
About the book
Redwood Burl is a compact yet comprehensive guide to the extensive climbing in Northwest California. The college town of Arcata is the center of a universe of incredible but little-known cragging and bouldering. Sea cliffs, sea lions, river-polished boulders, towering redwoods, hidden limestone caves, and enough climbing to keep you busy for a lifetime. It’s a paradise. For years, road-tripping climbers in the know have visited the limestone of the Trinity Arêtes and the overhanging seaside pockets of Promontory, declaring them some of the best sport crags in CA. This book fully documents these gems, and introduces dozens of other excellent cliffs that have hidden under the radar ... until now! There's a lot packed into this guidebook. You'll find maps to keep you oriented, icons depicting sun and rain aspects, hiking approach times, geology and ecology info, gorgeous color photography, and enough beta on bouldering, sport, and trad climbing to keep you busy whether you're just visiting the area or a seasoned local. $1 of each book sale is donated to the Northwest California Climbers Coalition, whose mission is to preserve and expand local climbing opportunities. Please visit their website at nwca-climbers.org, and feel free to pitch in, any way you can!
Areas included
Coastal areas from Arcata to Crescent City, including Moonstone Beach, Sue-meg (formerly Patrick’s Point) State Park, Lost Rocks, Promontory
More Highway 101 fun down south, Santa Rosa to Arcata
80 pages of Highway 299 crags - Land of the Lost, Cold Springs, Trinity Arêtes, and many more
Sweet Highway 36 and Highway 3 crags including the Caverns, Hayfork Haven, Marble Caves
The adventurous Siskiyou County region including Cecilville Bluffs and Lover’s Leap limestone
Many previously undocumented crags, and adventures galore!
About the author
Evan Wisheropp has an almost unreasonable love for climbing and insatiable desire to open new climbs. In his quest to explore everything that Northwest California has to offer, he has climbed over 1300 local routes (over 80% of the routes in this book), as well as cleaned, developed, bolted, or rebolted over 400 routes. This is truly a labor of love — he has invested over $20,000 into the climbing infrastructure described in this guide! Evan isn't always out getting dirty with his power drill. He also works his camera to create beautiful imagery, which brings the guidebook to life. You can see some of his professional work here. He and wife Amanda work and live in Arcata. If you see a guy with a drill, say hey! It might be Evan.
Details
Redwood Burl: A Climber’s Guide to Northwest California
2022 Wolverine Publishing
by Evan Wisheropp
396 full color pages
9781938393464
Need more on Northern California? Check out California Roadtrip!
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The Good, the Great, and the Awesome
$40.00
About the book
The very best climbs in the High Sierra, according to iconic climber Peter Croft. He has hand picked and described in detail his favorite climbs in a region that boasts some of the cleanest granite that you'll find anywhere. Sprinkled throughout the text are interesting personal anecdotes and insider's beta. The first edition covered 40 of the top climbs. This 2nd edition has even more. How could you go wrong with The Good, the Great, and the Awesome?
Areas featured
Whitney Region
Palisades
Bishop High Country
Tuolumne Meadows
The Incredible Hulk
Roadside Cragging
About the author
Peter Croft needs little introduction, being a longtime icon in the sport. Perhaps most famous for his daring first free solo of Yosemite's famed Astroman, he has spent the last twenty years climbing in the Eastern Sierra. He lives in Bishop with his wife, Karine.
Details
The Good, the Great, and the Awesome
2016 Maximus Press
by Peter Croft
304 full-color pages
9780982498835
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Moore’s Wall Bouldering
$39.99
About the book
Situated in the North Carolina Piedmont near Winston-Salem, Moore's Wall is home to year-round climbing and bouldering. It is conveniently located in a park where camping and hiking are also available. The rock is bullet quartzite, which is interesting both aesthetically and for climbing. Moore's Wall Bouldering covers over 500 problems, and includes detailed maps and boulder topos to help get you oriented. Information on climbing history and local amenities will help you get to know the area and things to do. The action photography is so energetic that you'll feel like you're right there. Go get some!
About the author
Greg Loomis was born and raised on the gneiss boulders around Asheville, NC. An avid developer and first ascensionist, Greg enjoys dragging his wife and friends on gnarly bushwhacking expeditions in search of new boulders. In addition to exploratory missions, Greg also enjoys maintaining the trails and developed areas.
Details
Moore's Wall Bouldering 1st edition
2017 Brayackmedia Publishing
by Greg Loomis
Color. 280 pages.
9780990782124
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Gunks Bouldering
$35.00
About the book
Gunks Bouldering! This is New York City climbers’ favorite place to play, and Andy Salo and Hillary Guzik have done a spectacular job of presenting it. Just outside the lively town of New Paltz, two hours from the City, lie the historic rocks of the Shawangunks, ground zero for countless dedicated climbers. There’s great (and famous) roped climbing at the Gunks, but the bouldering here also rocks. With easy access and a decades-long parade of climbing’s who’s-who passing thorugh, the bouldering here has deep roots, with classic blocs dating back 50 years. Many problems rise directly from carriage roads that provide casual approaches — and perfectly flat landings. This is the definitive bouldering guide to the region, brought to you by the core local team that created the well-known Gunks Apps.
Areas covered in Gunks Bouldering
Trapps - 22 areas
Near Trapps - 5 areas
Peter’s Kill - 9 areas
Over 600 problems in all
Consider picking up a copy of New England Bouldering for more great bouldering nearby! Or to round out the Gunks set, the classic trad climbs are covered in Gunks Climbing.
Featuring
Durable, sewn binding
Clear and detailed maps of the boulder fields
Photos of pretty much every boulder
Routes color-coded by difficulty
Full bouldering history complete with funky old photos
Sweet action shots from over 30 photographers
Full “climber’s pick” restaurant guide to New Paltz
Lodging and rest-day recommendations
About the authors
Andy Salo has bouldered in the Gunks since the late 1990s. In addition to opening many fine, hard problems, Andy’s proudest contribution to the guidebook is the unearthing of all the old history of Peter’s Kill and Trapps bouldering. After completing this book, he turned his attention to documenting Gunks roped routes - Gunks Climbing was released in spring of 2021. Hillary Guzik is a microscopist, entomologist, and photographer, and has been climbing around the Gunks since 2009. Her proudest contribution to the guidebook was making sure all of her favorite V0’s made it in. Her favorite Gunks climbs include Tweaky Crack (V3) and Baby Problem (V0) in the Trapps, and Won’t You? (V1) in Peter’s Kill.
Details
Gunks Bouldering
2018 Wolverine Publishing
by Andy Salo and Hillary Guzik
224 full-color pages
9781938393310
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Red River Gorge Select
$39.00
About the book
The best climbs at the entire Red River Gorge, all in one volume!
Visiting the Red and need a quick list of classics? On a budget and want to buy one book instead of three? Own all three but want a quick reference to the best climbs for a quick trip? Or do you love collecting sweet climbing guidebooks and need to see more inspiring action photos? Then Red River Gorge Select is perfect for you! The Red River Gorge has over 3,000 routes, and Red Select presents enough classics to fill a lifetime of weekend fun. With over 54 crag's worth of routes, you'll have plenty of areas to choose from if you need to escape crowds, rain, or cold.
Inside the book find handy icons to help plan your day: driving times, walking times, sun exposure, rain protection, and even kid friendliness. You will quickly learn how many routes there are, their grades, and percentage of sport vs trad climbs. GPS coordinates and detailed approach directions help you find your destination easily. Now all there is to do is climb!
Areas and features
Northern Gorge- Military, Left Flank, Funk Rock City, and more
Natural Bridge- Roadside, The Zoo, and more
Muir Valley- Midnight Surf, Bruise Brother's, Solarium, and more
Southern Region- Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, Solar Collector, Gold Coast, Gallery, Drive-by, Bob Marley, and more
Miller Fork- Infirmary, Fruit Wall, Cloud 9, Graveyard, and more
Handy infographics about each crag for quick reference
Looking for the comprehensive set? Pick up Red River Gorge North and Red River Gorge South.
Authors
Born and raised in Slade, KY, Dario Ventura is a true Red River Gorge local. He did his first FA here at the age of 10, with his dad Miguel and RRG legend John Bronaugh and John's son Alex. From this early start, he has moved on to do many more first ascents in the area, especially at Miller Fork. Like his dad, he's got pizza in his blood, and from an early age has been an integral part of the Miguel's Pizza business. He and the rest of the Venturas have made the Red what it is with their ability to bring climbers together from around the world. Dario knows the Red as if it has been his backyard his whole life, which in fact it has. Mike Williams, assistant wordsmith, researcher, and project manager for this book, is a New River Gorge climber, and author of the guidebook for that area. A longtime editor of Deadpoint magazine until that fine publication's demise, he has climbed extensively in the Red, and his love of the area and attention to detail were essential in making this book what it is. Mike lives in Fayetteville, WV, with his wife Elissa and children Hazel and Elliot, where he climbs, writes, and operates Bridge Bound Campers, tricking out Sprinter vans. Ray Ellington has climbed at the Red for 30 years. He first partnered with Wolverine Publishing in 2005 and would go on to write 4 editions of the Red River Gorge guidebook, and self-publish the Miller Fork guide. He lives in Lexington, KY with his wife Michelle and still runs his website redriverclimbing.com.
Details
Red River Gorge Select
2018 Wolverine Publishing
by Dario Ventura, Mike Williams, and Ray Ellington
340 full-color pages
9781938393327
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Bishop Area Rock Climbs
$35.00
About the book
Bishop Area Rock Climbs is the quintessential climbing guide to the Eastern Sierra South surrounding Bishop, California. It includes bouldering, trad climbing, sport climbing and multi-pitch climbing over a vast area. Bishop Area Rock Climbs has it all! Please note that this book does not include the climbing at Owens River Gorge. Click here for the new, updated, dedicated guidebook to this great sport climbing area! Inside this book you'll also find beta for a selection of bouldering at the Happy and Sad volcanic boulders which lie just outside town. Check out the Bishop Visitor's Center for some information on the local climbing areas and businesses to patronize while in Bishop.
Areas covered
Alabama Hills
Whitney Portal
Buttermilk Country
Cardinal Pinnacle
Happy and Sad Boulders
Buttermilk Country
Pine Creek
About the authors
Peter Croft was born in Canada, but escaped the cold and wet and now resides in Bishop. He has written numerous essays, articles, and guidebooks, and is an authority on climbing in the Sierras. Find some of his Sierra favorites in his book The Good, the Great, and the Awesome. In addition to writing and climbing for fun, Peter also works as a climbing guide for Sierra Mountain Guides. Information on their services is found here. Marty Lewis has lived in the Eastern Sierra for over 30 years. He owns and runs Maximus Press, and lives in Bishop with wife Sharon and canine friends.
Details
Bishop Area Rock Climbs 3rd edition
2008 Maximus Press
by Peter Croft & Marty Lewis
335 pages in black and white
9780967611693
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Teton Rock Climbs
$26.99
About the book
The Grand Teton, in northern Wyoming, may be the most iconic peak in the Lower 48 states. Surrounding this impressive high point is the craggy Teton Range, with a dozen other spectacular summits that would be crown jewels anywhere else. Not surprisingly, climbers flock to the Tetons, and have since the earliest days of American mountaineering. And it's not just looks: the quality and climb-ability of the rock and elegance of the routes has kept the Tetons in vogue. Teton Rock Climbs by Aaron Gams takes you directly to the best climbs in the range, with enough choices to last most visitors a lifetime. This 2012 edition is a selected guide to the local's favorite classic and new routes in the Grand Teton National Park with over 300 color images and 85 detailed routes, from 3rd-class mountaineering to 5.12+ test pieces.
Features
Inside scoop on Grand Teton National Park- maps, camping, weather, etc.
85 detailed route descriptions with approach and descent beta
300 color photos to aid in navigation
easy-to-read layout
About the author
Aaron Gams was born in Wisconsin, and after some time made his way to the West. Gams has been climbing in the Tetons for the last 20 years, and his knowledge of the area shines through in this guide. A one-time ski patroller, Aaron is now a practicing Neuromuscular Therapist in Jackson, Wyoming.
Details
Teton Rock Climbs
2012 Ground Up Press
by Aaron Gams
238 full-color pages
9780976636328
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Southern California Rock Climbing
$42.95
About the book
Southern California Rock Climbing is volume 2 of the California Road Trip series by Maximus Press. This selected guidebook covers Joshua Tree, Tahquitz and Suicide, Riverside Quarry, New Jack City, Mount Woodson, Malibu Creek, Stoney Point, Gibraltar Rocks — you name it. This select guide takes you to over 60 climbing areas from the middle of the Golden State to the Mexican border. Intended as a complement to California Road Trip: A Climber's Guide to Northern California, these two tomes will provide info on a whopping 3000 routes over 160 areas in the Golden State. This volume alone will provide a lifetime of climbing: from alpine to oceanside, from desert to urban, the diversity of Southern California rock climbing will impress even the best-traveled veteran.
About the author
Tom Slater has been climbing for over 30 years and has authored several other CA climbing guides. He has logged over 150 of his own FAs, and has climbed boulders to big walls all over the US and Europe. An English teacher, he spends his free time traveling, surfing, and hanging out with his wife and kids in their home on the Central CA coast.
Details
Southern California Rock Climbing
2013 Maximus Press
by Tom Slater
360 full-color pages
9780982498811