• About the book

    A Climber’s Guide to Big Bear Lake and Holcomb Valley Pinnacles is the essential guide to climbing near Big Bear Lake in California’s San Bernardino Mountains. It features over 1000 trad and sport routes! You’ll even find a little bouldering too. The most popular climbing area here is the famed Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, loved for its steep, well-featured, granite sport climbs. The Pinnacles are covered in full detail, but if you want to do some social distancing, there is beta here for scores of crags where you might not see a single person. Moderate sport climbs may have put Big Bear on the map, but there is something perfect here for everyone, from easy slabs, to remote pinnacles, to trad cracks of all kinds. Awesome camping abounds. While most people think of summer climbing at Big Bear, fall and even winter climbing is easy to find. The pine-covered hills, quaint mountain town, and expansive lake offer all kinds of rest-day fun. With never-before-published crags, extensive maps, and new routes for every skill level, this full-color, comprehensive guidebook promises years of climbing adventures in LA’s backyard.

    Areas included

    • Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
    • Lakeside crags including Castle Rock and Fisherman’s Buttress
    • Fawnskin area including Hanna Rocks and Holcomb Creek
    • Grapevine Canyon area, including Butt Rock
    • Black Bluff and Siberia Creek
    • North Shore Boulders

    Author

    Brandon Copp’s other job is aerospace engineer, and he has applied that same careful attention to detail in this guidebook. You’ll appreciate that when you’re looking for precise driving directions to a remote crag, or the respective grades of each of three variations to a route at your favorite Holcomb crag. What you won’t find is drab writing  — Copp’s love of the area shines through bright and clear. Learn more about Brandon and wife Jackie and their adventures in their travel blog, Go Escape The Ordinary.

    Details

    • Big Bear Lake & Holcomb Valley Pinnacles 1st edition
    • 2020 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Brandon Copp
    • 364 full color pages
    • 9781938393372
  • About the book

    If you like sport climbing on vertical to overhanging volcanic rock in the sun, you'll have big days of fun climbing at the Big Chief area near Lake Tahoe, California. Located at 7,000 feet in the mountains between Truckee and Tahoe, this is one of the best cool weather crags in the Tahoe region. Complemented with plentiful camping, the volcanic rock makes for a nice switch from the more typical granite found around Tahoe. Big Chief Area Climbs provides clear, concise beta that has been checked and rechecked. In fact, the author himself climbed almost every single route to verify the accuracy of all the info herein!

    Areas included

    • Big Chief
    • Light Deprivation Buttress
    • Little Chief
    • Sawtooth Ridge
    • Fun circuit ideas are suggested.
    Updates to the area can be found here (although there haven't been changes in a few years).

    About the author

    Marek Hajek grew up in the Czech Republic, and moved to Lake Tahoe in 1989. His friend Don Harder introduced him to climbing in 1992. Progress for Marek was slow, but he steadily worked up to having ticked all but three climbs in the Big Chief area. Marek married his wife Trang in 2001, and they live in Reno and climb in Tahoe as much as possible.

    Details

    • Big Chief Area Climbs
    • 2005 Maximus Press
    • by Marek Hajek
    • 96 pages in black and white
    • 9789067611679
     
  • About the book

    Bishop Area Rock Climbs is the quintessential climbing guide to the Eastern Sierra South surrounding Bishop, California. It includes bouldering, trad climbing, sport climbing and multi-pitch climbing over a vast area. Bishop Area Rock Climbs has it all! Please note that this book does not include the climbing at Owens River Gorge. Click here for the new, updated, dedicated guidebook to this great sport climbing area! Inside this book you'll also find beta for a selection of bouldering at the Happy and Sad volcanic boulders which lie just outside town. Check out the Bishop Visitor's Center for some information on the local climbing areas and businesses to patronize while in Bishop.

    Areas covered

    • Alabama Hills
    • Whitney Portal
    • Buttermilk Country
    • Cardinal Pinnacle
    • Happy and Sad Boulders
    • Buttermilk Country
    • Pine Creek

    About the authors

    Peter Croft was born in Canada, but escaped the cold and wet and now resides in Bishop. He has written numerous essays, articles, and guidebooks, and is an authority on climbing in the Sierras. Find some of his Sierra favorites in his book The Good, the Great, and the Awesome. In addition to writing and climbing for fun, Peter also works as a climbing guide for Sierra Mountain Guides. Information on their services is found here. Marty Lewis has lived in the Eastern Sierra for over 30 years. He owns and runs Maximus Press, and lives in Bishop with wife Sharon and canine friends.

    Details

    • Bishop Area Rock Climbs 3rd edition
    • 2008 Maximus Press
    • by Peter Croft & Marty Lewis
    • 335 pages in black and white
    • 9780967611693
     
  • About the book

    You'll find everything you need to have a great time climbing in the 3rd edition of our guidebook, Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs! With adjacent Dream Canyon also covered in the book, it’s an all-season, granite-lover’s paradise. Crags are accessed mere minutes from downtown. Spend an afternoon working on your most recent bolted project, or grapple with multi-pitch traditional climbs up to 400 feet long. There is something for all climbing levels and styles with plenty to choose from, from 5.4 to 5.14. There are even some world-famous boulder problems. You'll be challenged with delicate slabs, splitter cracks, burly roofs, and overhanging walls. Boulder Canyon climbing has it all! This book gives you all the beta you need for over 1800 routes and variations, with improved route photos, extensive new mapping, and the inspiring photography that you expect from Wolverine guides. While you’re enjoying this sweet little canyon you might notice shiny new bolts and remarkable trail work at some of the more popular crags. If you like what you see, join the Boulder Climbing Community to support more essential work in Boulder Canyon!

    New crags covered in the 3rd edition of Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs

    • Solar Dome
    • Glacier Dome
    • Lookout and Hideout
    • Wizard Rock
    • Loft and High Tower areas
    • and more!

    Authors

    (sometimes it just takes a team)
    Bob D’Antonio has been climbing since the 1970s. Originally from Philadelphia,  he began climbing at the Gunks, soon exploding West in a new-routing frenzy! Colorado areas where Bob contributed heavily include: Garden of the Gods, 11-Mile Canyon, Penitente Canyon, the South Platte, Shelf Road, and Independence Pass. Bob currently lives in Taos, New Mexico, with his wife, Laurel, and is the proud father of three children: Jeremy, Adam, and Rachael. He continues to put up new routes in the Rio Grande gorge near Taos, and is the third-best bird photographer on Facebook.
    Jeff Achey spent the best years of his youth climbing in the Boulder area, then went on to a career writing about climbing. He lives with his wife Amber Johnstone in western Colorado, where he splits his free time between bolting chossy cliffs and directing the creative at Wolverine Publishing.
    Adam Brink has spent over two decades climbing and guiding in Boulder Canyon. He lives in Boulder with wife Jessica Jaret, and is dad to two amazing kids, Willa and Nico.
    Peter Beal has been bouldering in the canyon over a decade. Besides climbing and his day job as a professor of art history at Front Range Community College, he works on painting, photography, and electric guitar, as well as writing. Peter lives out in eastern Boulder County with his wife Caolan and daughter Sophia.

    Details

    • 2017 Wolverine Publishing
    • 3rd edition
    • by Bob D’Antonio, Jeff Achey, Adam Brink, Peter Beal.
    • 380 full color pages
    • 9781938393280
  • About the book

    This is a lot of guidebook! California Road Trip has over 450 pages, a grand tour of 2000+ routes on over 100 crags. Perhaps "climbing atlas" would be a better term. Boulders, sport, and trad, all on granite, volcanic, and limestone...it's a safe bet to say this guidebook holds several lifetimes worth of climbing! Each area is listed with a great overview, including information on more in-depth guidebooks and season specifics. For the big areas, this book just scratches the surface, while for many of the smaller ones it's all you'll ever need. Whether you're a hardened California local, or simply visiting for the first time, this book is sure to inspire some new adventures. The open road is calling!

    Areas covered

    • Whitney Portal
    • Bishop
    • The Needles
    • Moro Rock
    • Yosemite
    • Tuolumne
    • Sonora Pass
    • Bay Area
    • and much, much more

    About the authors

    Tom Slater has been climbing for over 30 years and has authored several other CA climbing guides. He has logged over 150 of his own FAs, and has climbed boulders to big walls all over the US and Europe. An English teacher, he spends his free time traveling, surfing, and hanging out with his wife and kids in their home on the Central CA coast. Chris Summit was born to climb. A northern CA native, he started climbing in the '80s in Sonoma County. He has also authored several other climbing guides as well, including the self-published Wine Country Rocks. In addition to exploring for new FAs, Chris spends a lot of time teaching climbing and setting routes at various climbing gyms. He still lives in Sonoma County

    Details

    • California Road Trip: A Climber's Guide to Northern California
    • 2009 Maximus Press
    • by Tom Slater and Chris Summit
    • 456 black and white pages
    • 9780982498804
  • About the book

    The City of Rocks and Castle Rocks State Park is your essential companion for the amazing granite climbing in the high desert of southern Idaho, one of the most popular summer rock-climbing areas in the Rocky Mountain West. Other landmarks have been christened “City of Rocks,” but to climbers this one is THE City. It’s been called America’s premiere granite sport-climbing area — and just as often praised for its unique trad climbing. With more than 1000 routes to choose from, you can crimp overhanging patina, grunt up an offwidth, cruise a multi-pitch 5.8, or summit a dramatic spire — all within a short walk of your campsite. Nearby you’ll find historic inscriptions, hikes, mountain biking, and the funky Western town of Almo to keep you supplied and entertained on rest days. Also included here for the first time is the sweet climbing at nearby Castle Rocks State Park. With a different, quieter vibe than the roadside crags in the City, Castle Rocks is a worthy destination in itself, with over 300 routes up to three pitches long, featuring many moderate climbs with a more “modern,” novice-friendly equipping style. Dave Bingham has been chronicling the climbing at City of Rocks since the 1980s, but this is the breakthrough edition, with full-color cliff photographs throughout and excellent maps that put an end to the days of wandering lost in search of your desired crag. The action photography alone will have you planning your trip immediately.

    Areas included

    • City of Rocks
    • Castle Rocks State Park

    About the author

    Born on Long Island, NY, Dave Bingham spent his childhood in the Northeast, learning to ski and climb in his early teens before moving out West in the 1970s. He spent summers in Yosemite and winters near Sun Valley, Idaho, guiding rock and teaching cross-country skiing and soon making his permanent home in the Sun Valley area. Dave lives in Hailey, with his wife Lisa, where he runs a log-home chinking business, Dave Bingham Chinking. He still drags out his college-age-and-younger children Tara, Cameron, Jack, and Kate on a variety of mountain adventures. Dave’s curriculum vitae in adventure sports is impressive: a lifelong athlete and competitor, he has won many Nordic ski and running races in Idaho, and has placed as high as 3rd (1980) in the famous Pikes Peak Marathon. In 1988 and 1990 he won the notorious NBC Survival of the Fittest contest, an old-school, now-defunct version of today’s American Ninja Warrior — but held outside in much more dangerous terrain, featuring stunts such as speed rappelling, whitewater swimming, downhill running, and a log-rolling/stick-fighting battle thing. Dave went on to enter the even more grueling BBC Arctic Survival comp, winning in 1990 and 1992. Dave also set the speed record for ascending all nine of Idaho’s peaks over 12,000 feet: 38 hours, besting the previous record by two days (check out the current record holders). On the rock-climbing front, Dave is a longtime and prolific new-router, with over 200 first ascents up to 5.13, spread over 30+ years, in the City of Rocks alone. Though an “early adopter” of the sport-climbing ethic in the mid 1980s, Dave is a true all-arounder, with many trad ascents in the City, the Elephant’s Perch in the Sawtooths, and farther afield. Though still putting up new routes, Dave is now more of a mentor on the Idaho climbing scene. In addition to authoring eight editions of the climber’s guide to City of Rocks, Dave is also the author of Idaho Underground, an eclectic guide to southern Idaho crags and boulders.

    Details

    • City of Rocks
    • 2016 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Dave Bingham
    • 312 full-color pages
    • 9781938393242
  • About the book

    Wisconsin's Devil’s Lake State Park is, hands down, the Midwest’s premier rock-climbing area. With its many, many routes in the more moderate grades, and the wide range of techniques required to ascend them, it has even been called the best place in the country to learn to climb. Located just northwest of Madison, it is the closest major crag for countless Midwest climbers, from Chicago to Des Moines, Milwaukee to the Twin Cities. The Lake also features great hiking, swimming, and camping. The unique quartzite rock is a wonder of nature, notable for its vibrant purple color and made-to-climb texture. From ladder-like beginner’s romps, to strenuous crack leads, to desperate glassy faces, you’ll find something perfect to suit every mood. There are no bolts at Devil’s Lake, and though the bullet-hard stone offers many fine lead climbs, toproping is widely practiced, leading to a fun, community atmosphere where climbers can test themselves to the limit with minimal risk and maximum focus on precision movement. Check out this website by the local guide service for tips on setting up toprope anchors at Devil's Lake. Mastery of small holds is a hallmark of Lake-trained rock climbers who venture out to other areas of the country. Your training will serve you well! In addition to describing almost 900 climbs at all the cliffs of Devil’s Lake State Park, this book also devotes over 20 pages on two nearby areas, Necedah and Hillbilly Hollow, which feature a different kind of rock, and even a little bolted sport climbing and a smattering of the best bouldering.

    Featuring

    • Almost 1000 rock climbs
    • the 40 best boulder problems
    • Area maps and schematics
    • Geology, flora, and fauna
    • Detailed climbing history
    • Guide to park rules, camping options, and local amenities
    • Colorful essays by John Gill, Leo Hermacinski, Steve Sangdahl, Nick Rhoads, and others
    • Dozens of inspring action photos

    Areas included in Devil's Lake

    • East Bluff
    • West Bluff
    • Sandstone Bluff
    • Necedah
    • Hillbilly Hollow

    About the Author

    Jay Knower, 38, grew up in Baraboo, WI, with Devil’s Lake in his backyard, and began climbing there as a teenager in 1993. This introduction to rock climbing did the trick, and he has gone on to visit crags all over the world, climbing up to 5.13a trad and 5.14a sport and establishing many new routes. Jay met his wife Kayte in Yosemite’s Camp 4, and the couple moved to New Hampshire together in 2003 and have lived there ever since — though Jay makes it a point to get back to Devil’s Lake at least once a year to visit family and test himself on his beloved home quartzite. Jay holds a B.A. in English and an M.Ed. in English Education, and has worked in education his entire adult life. His writing has appeared in Climbing Magazine, The Canadian Alpine Journal, and The New Hampshire Journal of Education. A lifelong runner, Jay has completed two marathons, and every year he threatens to run another one (but doesn’t). He currently lives in Campton, New Hampshire, with Kayte, their daughter June, and Topher the Mountain Poodle.

    Details

    • Devil's Lake: A Climbing Guide
    • 2016 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Jay Knower
    • 308 full-color pages
    • 9781938393259
  • TEMPORARY UPDATE 1/06/2022: Frustration Creek areas are currently closed due to fire damage and rockfall!

    About the book

    A Climber's Guide to Frustration Creek describes a collection of areas in the lower San Bernardino Mountains of Southern California. This area feels remote, but is conveniently located only a half hour drive from Riverside. The book has all of the route photos and maps that you need to get you oriented. You'll find lots of action photos, as well as area and historical information. Escape the summer heat and the bustling city with a trip to Frustration Creek with this guide as your companion. Even your non-climbing partners will enjoy the area, with Big Bear Lake and other mountain attractions nearby. And, since you're looking at this book, we thought you might also be interested in one of our newest titles, "A Climber's Guide to Big Bear Lake & Holcomb Valley Pinnacles" by Brandon Copp. Also featuring never-before-published areas, this book is a great companion to Frustration Creek!

    Areas included

    • Mill Creek Wash
    • Rocky Hollow
    • Thurman Flats
    • Monkey Face Falls
    • Mountain Home Creek
    • Frustration Creek

    About the author

    Louie Anderson was one of the first to explore the Frustration Creek area and established many new routes and boulder problems. It took some time to publish this book because things just wouldn't settle down in the area. Natural events such as flash floods and landslides were constantly changing the canyon. New routes just kept going up. In his words, "at long last, the secrets of the lower San Bernardino Mountain climbing areas are revealed" in this complete, accurate guidebook. He now lives in Ten Sleep, Wyoming with wife Valerie, and runs the Ten Sleep Canyon Rock Ranch. Check out his guide to the climbing at Ten Sleep Canyon!

    Details

    • Climber's Guide to Frustration Creek 1st edition
    • 2020 Louie Anderson
    • by Louie Anderson
    • 200 full-color pages
    • 9780976663089
     
  • About the book

    Gunks Bouldering! This is New York City climbers’ favorite place to play, and Andy Salo and Hillary Guzik have done a spectacular job of presenting it. Just outside the lively town of New Paltz, two hours from the City, lie the historic rocks of the Shawangunks, ground zero for countless dedicated climbers. There’s great (and famous) roped climbing at the Gunks, but the bouldering here also rocks. With easy access and a decades-long parade of climbing’s who’s-who passing thorugh, the bouldering here has deep roots, with classic blocs dating back 50 years. Many problems rise directly from carriage roads that provide casual approaches — and perfectly flat landings. This is the definitive bouldering guide to the region, brought to you by the core local team that created the well-known Gunks Apps.

    Areas covered in Gunks Bouldering

    • Trapps - 22 areas
    • Near Trapps - 5 areas
    • Peter’s Kill - 9 areas
    • Over 600 problems in all
    Consider picking up a copy of New England Bouldering for more great bouldering nearby! Or to round out the Gunks set, the classic trad climbs are covered in Gunks Climbing.

    Featuring

    • Durable, sewn binding
    • Clear and detailed maps of the boulder fields
    • Photos of pretty much every boulder
    • Routes color-coded by difficulty
    • Full bouldering history complete with funky old photos
    • Sweet action shots from over 30 photographers
    • Full “climber’s pick” restaurant guide to New Paltz
    • Lodging and rest-day recommendations

    About the authors

    Andy Salo has bouldered in the Gunks since the late 1990s. In addition to opening many fine, hard problems, Andy’s proudest contribution to the guidebook is the unearthing of all the old history of Peter’s Kill and Trapps bouldering. After completing this book, he turned his attention to documenting Gunks roped routes - Gunks Climbing was released in spring of 2021. Hillary Guzik is a microscopist, entomologist, and photographer, and has been climbing around the Gunks since 2009. Her proudest contribution to the guidebook was making sure all of her favorite V0’s made it in. Her favorite Gunks climbs include Tweaky Crack (V3) and Baby Problem (V0) in the Trapps, and Won’t You? (V1) in Peter’s Kill.

    Details

    • Gunks Bouldering
    • 2018 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Andy Salo and Hillary Guzik
    • 224 full-color pages
    • 9781938393310
  • About the book

    The Shawangunks — “the Gunks” to most of us — is one of the oldest climbing areas in the US, with a storied history dating back to the 1930s. Located 80 miles north of New York City, it has long been a focal point of rock-climbing culture, and remains a traditional climber’s paradise. There is no shortage of very difficult routes that will challenge the best climbers, but the Gunks is even more famous for its incredible easier climbs. You could spend several seasons exploring made-to-climb cracks, faces, overhangs, and dihedrals without ever venturing beyond the 5.7 grade! Multi-pitch outings abound, and the graded carriage road at the base of the cliffs allows easy strolls to even the most distant ends of the cliff.
    This full-color, ruthlessly researched guide represents the “next generation” of Gunks guidebooks. It covers over 600 routes at the two main cliffs: the Trapps and Near Trapps. Cliff-base photos get you quickly oriented on the ground, and high-resolution aerial images show key features on routes. Detailed area and route descriptions help you find just the right flavor of climb. You’ll spend less time searching, and more time pulling overhangs, plugging cams, and chasing your own piece of history.

    Areas and features

    • Trapps — Keyhole to Slime Wall (21 sectors)
    • Near Trapps — right end to Workout Wall (3 sectors)
    • Aerial cliff photos
    • Cliff-base photos
    • Trailhead-locator photos
    • Helpful sector summaries for choosing where to climb 
    • Action photography from past and present eras
    • Detailed regional and climbing history
    • Biographical essays of 10 famed Gunks climbers
    • Graded list of routes
    Looking for more? Gunks Bouldering describes over 600 boulder problems.

    Authors

    Andy Salo grew up outside Rochester, New York, and began climbing at age 14. He first visited the Gunks soon after, and moved there full time in 2004. Andy’s hard Gunks first ascents are local lore, including Brozone (5.14a), Over the Moon (5.13c), Fire Gild (5.13c R), Corkscrew Roof (V12), Chaotic Stability (V10), and Ideas Are Bulletproof (V10). Having recently relocated to Burlington, VT, he’s super proud of this project and is forever grateful to the Gunks. He is also author of Gunks Bouldering. Christian Fracchia grew up in Glens Falls, New York. A lifelong climber with 36 years of Gunks experience, he spent his formative years climbing rock and ice in the Gunks, Catskills, Adirondacks, and White Mountains before settling in New Paltz in 2000. A high-school physics teacher, Christian has also devoted his summers to climbing around the world, most recently spending his time in the Dolomites of Italy. He is the author and creator of Gunks Apps. His notable Gunks first ascents include The Zoomulator (5.12a), Word of Mouth (5.12b), Indiana Jones (5.12a X), Future Shock Direct (5.12c R/X) in the Trapps, and The Past Recaptured (5.12a), at Millbrook, his favorite Gunks cliff. An architect and designer by education, Eric Ratkowski grew up in Detroit, Michigan, and has climbed in the Gunks for 14 years, guiding professionally for 6 of those. His community contributions include editing for the AAC’s Accidents in North American Climbing and working as a ranger at the Mohonk Preserve. Eric has climbed in eight countries and four continents. He’s climbed and guided at a hundred different areas in the United States, and claims to have “never climbed anything of note.”

    Details

    • Gunks Climbing
    • 2021 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Andy Salo, Christian Fracchia, and Eric Ratkowski 
    • 468 full-color pages
    • 9781938393389
  • About the book

    Hueco Tanks State Park in West Texas has some of the best bouldering in the world, featuring some of the country’s most famous boulder problems. It is also a precious repository of ancient Native American rock art, and every trip to Hueco involves delightful hunts for the famous “masks.” This is volume 1 of our second generation of Hueco bouldering guides. Much has changed at Hueco since the original 2004 edition :  the discovery of new rock art led to changes in access, there are great new places to stay, and new problems abound! This comprehensive guide covers 850 problems at self-guided North Mountain (200 new problems since the last edition). For guided-only areas (West Mountain, East Mountain, and the East Spur), there is also a 20+ page “greatest-hits” section, full of maps and great imagery. We also include a thorough guide to navigating the park regulations and the tour-guide sytem so you can get the most out of your visit. Jason Kehl put in an incredible effort to update and beautify Matt Wilder’s original work for this new edition! Please note: this volume is comprehensive for North Mountain only. For hard-bit Hueco connoisseurs, a comprehensive book for the guided-tour-only section of the park is in the works! For more online information on the access to Hueco, check out this site.

    Areas covered

    • North Slope - 9 areas
    • Front Side - 7 areas
    • Eastern Slope - 4 areas
    • Top of the Chains - 5 areas
    • Summit plateau - 4 areas
    • Southern Slope - 2 areas
    • “The Backcountry” - 20+ pages of the best problems

    Features 

    • $1 from each book sold is donated to the Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition
    • Durable, sewn binding
    • Unique drone-sourced schematic maps
    • Color photos of almost every boulder
    • Routes color-coded by difficulty
    • Cultural and climbing history of the park
    • Essential advice on lodging, amenities, logistics
    • Essays by John Sherman, the late Todd Skinner, Fred Nicole, Ashima Shiraishi, Bronson MacDonald, Sam Davis, and Thomasina Pidgeon
    • Action photos by Andy Mann, Gustavo Moser, Merrick Ales, John Wesely, Jim Thornburg, Boone Speed, Sandra Studer, Colette McInerney, and more

    About the authors

    Jason Kehl has been bouldering in Hueco since 1996. His national claims to fame include his first ascent of the notorious Evilution (V12, 2002) in the Buttermilks and the first bouldering ascent of The Fly (5.14d, 2003) in Rumney. Since then he has made hard first ascents from Japan and Peru to Europe and the US, including The Seventh Circle (V14) in Hueco. Jason is also well known for his creation of unusual art — see www.cryptochild.com. He has shaped holds for SoIll for 20 years, and has designed more than 10 gyms, including the Englewood, CO, Earth Treks, one of the biggest in the country. He now lives in El Paso with the lovely Martina Mali and their sweet baby daughter Eva Luna and son Luka Von. When not writing guidebooks, he continues to shape holds, design gyms, and make videos while exploring the endless potential of Hueco Tanks. Matt Wilder grew up New England and honed his skills through many seasons in Hueco during the late 1990s and early 2000s. In 2004, he authored the first edition of this guide, which documented hundreds of classic new problems. Bandersnatch (V13) is one of his better Hueco first ascents, and he is a true all-arounder, with 5.14 R trad FAs, the first onsight of Zion’s Moonlight Buttress (V, 5.12d), and several one-day ascents of El Cap. Matt completed a PhD in computer science at CU Boulder and currently runs a small consulting company doing work in Artificial Intelligence and Machine Learning. Outside of work and climbing, Matt has made several appearances on the popular TV show American Ninja Warrior, including some of the series' most exciting moments. Living in Boulder, CO, since 2006, he still makes it down to Hueco on a regular basis, though now much of the climbing is done with his son Bayes, who recently climbed his first 5.14, Rodeo Free Europe, at age 10.

    Details

    • 2020 Wolverine Publishing second edition
    • by Matt Wilder and Jason Kehl
    • 308 full-color pages
    • 9781938393365
  • About the book

    You’ve probably seen photos of the spectacular limestone walls of the Fins, renowned for their big, clean, hard sport lines. Idaho Underground is their big debut. But that is just the tip of the Idaho potato — more than 20 other southern Idaho crags are covered here, near Boise, Twin Falls, and the Sun Valley area. Locals and a few savvy visitors have long known about the truly “underground” areas such as Boise’s Black Cliffs, Dierkes Lake, Leslie Gulch, and more — including the crazy Lava Caves, with juggy, upside-down climbing set beneath windswept sage flats.  Dave Bingham, Godfather of Idaho climbing, put out the B&W first edition of this guide in 2012; with hundreds of new climbs to share, this color guide really showcases them! Check out this video from La Sportiva if you want to see the beautiful Fins (and the second ascent of a 5.14d).

    Some of the areas covered

    • The Fins
    • Boise’s Black Cliffs
    • Table Rock
    • Leslie Gulch
    • Dierkes Lake
    • Teddy Bear Cove
    • Ramshorn Canyon
    • Lava Caves
    • The Channel

    Idaho Underground Features

    • Over 1500 climbs, — sport, trad, multi-pitch, and bouldering
    • Durable, sewn binding
    • Lots of helpful regional information
    • Drone-assisted cliff imagery of the Fins
    • Essays by Jonny Woodward, Jonathan Siegrist, Tedd Thompson, and more
    • $1 from every book sold goes to local climbing organizations

    About the author

    In addition to Idaho Underground, Dave Bingham is also the author of several editions of the ever-popular City of Rocks guidebooks. He grew up in the Northeast, learning to ski and climb there before moving out West in the 1970s and settling near Sun Valley, Idaho. In addition to his impressive roster of FAs, his is an accomplished endurance athlete, with many wins in mountain-running and Nordic ski races. Check out the City of Rocks website entry for more details on his remarkable achievements. Dave lives in Hailey with his wife Lisa, where he runs a log-home chinking business, Dave Bingham Chinking.

    Details

    • Idaho Underground
    • 2019 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Dave Bingham
    • 316 full-color pages
    • 9781938393358

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