• About New River Rock Vol 1

    The New River Gorge of West Virginia is one of the most dramatic canyons in the East. It’s famous for its whitewater rafting, the BASE-jumping extravaganza of “Bridge Day,” and, of course, its world-class rock climbing. New River Gorge climbing is a unique combination of excellent, historic trad and equally excellent, historic sport. Unlike its main “rival” crag, Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, the New holds equal allure for both trad and sport climbers. No surprise to the tradsters: the Nuttall Sandstone is harder than granite and riddled with excellent cracks of all sizes. Fair enough, say the sportsters, but the bolted climbing is some of the best and most varied anywhere! The specialty of the house is technical climbing that will test your ingenuity, footwork, and finger strength, but there are plenty of massively overhanging sectors for those who just want to grab big holds and pull. There is so much climbing in the New that we’ve had to split it into two volumes, each with a lifetime’s worth of routes to explore.

    Volume 1 – The Main Gorge

    This volume documents the heart of New River Gorge climbing, the crags of the main gorge. You’ll find all the beta for more than 1900 climbing routes on the immaculate sandstone walls of this beautiful river canyon. Endless climbing! (But while you’re in the area, you won’t want to miss the Meadow and Summersville Lake – the newest edition of  Vol 2 released in July 2021).

    Areas covered

    • Kaymoor
    • Bubba City
    • Beauty Mountain
    • Junkyard
    • Bridge Buttress
    • Fern Buttress
    • Endless Wall
    • South Nuttall
    • Domino Point
    • Sunshine Buttress
    • Keeney’s Buttress
    • Ambassador Buttress
    • Cotton Top
    • Needleseye (access and overview only)

    Featuring

    • premium sewn binding
    • entertaining route descriptions
    • up-to-date beta on over 1900 routes
    • detailed history
    • camping and apres-climb stuff
    • inspiring color photos

    The Author

    Mike Williams learned to climb on the granite domes of North Carolina, but felt the pull of West Virginia’s Nuttall Sandstone after his first trips to the New in the late ’90s. He then toured around the US in a VW van looking for the best rock climbing before finally realizing it was back where he started, at the New River Gorge. He has since become an active route developer there. Mike has worked as a wilderness instructor, climbing guide, rigger, author, editor for Deadpoint Magazine, and guidebook project manager. He now runs Bridge Bound Campers, converting cargo vans into luxury road-trip machines. He lives in Fayetteville with his wife Elissa, children Hazel and Elliott, and crag dog Lilah. You can contact Mike at mikey@newriverclimbing.net or just stop by Bridge Bound Campers at 131 S Court Street to talk about his two passions — rock climbing and van dwelling. $1 per book sale goes straight to the local climber's org, New River Alliance of Climbers.

    Details

    • New River Rock Volume 1, 3rd edition
    • 2019 Wolverine Publishing
    • By Mike Williams
    • 460 full-color pages
    • 978193839341
  • About the book

    The New River Gorge of West Virginia is one of the most dramatic canyons in the East. It’s famous for its whitewater rafting, the BASE-jumping extravaganza of “Bridge Day,” and, of course, its world-class rock climbing. New River Gorge climbing is a unique combination of excellent, historic trad and equally excellent, historic sport. Unlike its main “rival” crag, Kentucky’s Red River Gorge, the New holds equal lure for both trad and sport climbers. No surprise to the tradsters: the Nuttall Sandstone is harder than granite and riddled with excellent cracks of all sizes. Fair enough, say the sportsters, but the bolted climbing is some of the best and most varied anywhere! The specialty of the house is technical climbing that will test your ingenuity, footwork, and finger strength, but there are plenty of massively overhanging sectors for those who just want to grab big holds and pull. There is so much climbing in the New that we’ve had to split it into two volumes, each with a lifetime’s worth of routes to explore.

    Volume 2 – The Meadow, Gauley, and Summersville Lake

    This volume documents the climbing north of the main gorge of the New, with over 1400 routes on the crags along the Meadow and Gauley rivers and surrounding Summersville Lake. Many of the crags here are close to fine swimming holes, making them favorites for summer climbing. The Coliseum at the Lake is arguably the most sought-after hardperson’s crag in the entire region, and as of 2021 now boasts the hardest sport climb in the East. Just a short stroll away is Orange Oswald, likely the most popular 5.10 sport crag in the New. And the steep, psychedelic rock of the Meadow must be seen to be believed. Endless climbing! But of course, you won’t want to miss the fantastic crags of the main gorge — see New River Rock Volume 1.

    Areas covered

    • Meadow South Side
    • Lower Meadow
    • Upper Meadow
    • Summersville Lake main area
    • Whippoorwill
    • Long Point
    • Gauley Crag
    • Carnifex Ferry

    Featuring

    • premium sewn binding
    • entertaining route descriptions
    • up-to-date beta on over 1400 routes
    • detailed history
    • camping and apres-climb stuff
    • inspiring color photos

    The Author

    Mike Williams learned to climb on the granite domes of North Carolina, but felt the pull of West Virginia’s Nuttall Sandstone after his first trips to the New in the late ’90s. He then toured around the US in a VW van looking for the best rock climbing before finally realizing it was back where he started, at the New River Gorge. He has since become an active route developer there. Mike has worked as a wilderness instructor, climbing guide, rigger, author, editor for Deadpoint Magazine, and guidebook project manager. He now runs Bridge Bound Campers, converting cargo vans into luxury road-trip machines. He lives in Fayetteville with his wife Elissa, children Hazel and Elliott, and crag dog Lilah. You can contact Mike at mikey@newriverclimbing.net or just stop by Bridge Bound Campers at 131 S Court Street to talk about his two passions — rock climbing and van dwelling. $1 per book sale goes straight to the local climber's org, New River Alliance of Climbers.

    Details

    • New River Rock Volume 2, 3rd edition
    • 2021 Wolverine Publishing
    • By Mike Williams
    • 328 full-color pages
    • 978193839402
  • About the book

    The 11th edition of the comprehensive Owens River Gorge Climbs is an indispensable resource for a great trip to California's premier basalt sport-climbing area, the Owens River Gorge. Written by longtime local Marty Lewis, this latest edition features over 900 climbs and many color action shots, both modern and historical, featuring rock stars of the day. There are maps, cliff photos, and hand-drawn topos to help you find your pick of climbs easily, as well as helpful lists of local amenities. Details like elevation, approach times, and the number and grade range of climbs at the beginning of each chapter will help with planning. A collection of essays written by notable Owens Valley Gorge climbers and route developers is sure to entertain during those long evenings at camp. Bishop is located in the Owens Valley of the Eastern Sierra. It's a great destination for a climbing trip at any time of the year, and Maximus Press publishes a selection of guidebooks that have you covered for all seasons. While the Owens Valley Gorge is best visited in the Spring and Fall, sometimes conditions permit climbing in the hotter and colder months. Check out Mammoth Area Rock Climbs and The Good, the Great, and the Awesome for some great summer climbing. Check out the Bishop Visitor Information website for a little more information and suggestions for climbing at the Gorge. You can also buy souvenirs right off their website if you don't feel like taking time for shopping while in Bishop.

    About the author

    Marty Lewis has been climbing at Owens River Gorge since 1989. During this time, he has climbed many of the routes there, and even established a few of them himself. He runs Maximus Press, and publishes several other guidebooks in the local area, as well as around California. He lives near Bishop with wife Sharon, and a couple of canine friends.

    Details

    • Owens River Gorge Climbs 11th edition
    • 2018 Maximus Press
    • by Marty Lewis
    • 388 color pages.
    • 9780982498842
  • About the book

    Foot for foot, the gem-like rhyolite of the San Luis Valley offers some of the finest climbing in the state. This guide covers all the most popular areas and several never-before-published crags, plus bonus chapters on the local bouldering and mountain biking highlights. This is the only modern book to this popular area, providing the most up-to-date access info, many new climbs, and new areas such as the Promised Land and Pharcyde. This book delivers the info you need, with plenty of sweet action photos to get you motivated.

    Features

    • The area’s only up-to-date climbing guidebook — don’t settle for fuzzy B&W photos and 1990s beta!
    • Penitente, Rock Garden, Witches’ Canyon, Sidewinder, Rattler, Promised Land, Pharcyde, English Valley, and more
    • Over 250 routes, 50 of them are 5.9 and under
    • All-current acces info, including Witches’ Canyon shortcut trails
    • Helpful maps and accurate driving directions
    • Bouldering highlights from the Rock Garden, Stone Quarry, Rattler Cliff, and more
    • Newly established 5.14s — check ‘em out: they’re heinous!
    • Every book purchase supports the San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance

    About the Author

    Nate Liles originally hails from British Columbia, Canada, but has been spending time at crags across the American West since he was 15. A skilled photographer and videographer, he shares his vision of the world via the business he and his partner Bekka operate, Orographic Creative.
    Since 2020, Nate has been the Development Director for the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA, safeclimbing.org), working to raise awareness of the most ambitious and effective hardware-replacement program in the country. An expert re-equipper, he teaches clinics on the fine art of climbing-bolt removal and replacement, and has brought these skills to the San Luis Valley, repairing and upgrading many of the classic routes here and helping others to do the same.
    Although he will be the last person to mention it, Nate is also a silent crusher on both the cliffs and the boulders, and has worked hard to repeat, evaluate, and standardize grades for the upper-end routes in this guide. When not climbing, shooting others climbing, repairing climbs, or opening new routes, Nate can be found sitting up late at a remote camp capturing time-lapse imagery of the night sky.

    Details

    Penitente: Rock Climbing in the San Luis Valley
    By Nate Liles
    ISBN: 978-1-938393-47-1
    204pp, color
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    About the book

    The Red River Gorge of Kentucky is one of the most enjoyable places in the world to climb. The Red River and its many tributaries have carved dozens of secluded canyons into the hill country east and south of Lexington, creating a natural wonderland and exposing a ridiculous amount of rock. The cliffs of the Red feature over 3000 routes, from traditional cracks to modern sport climbs, ranging from 5.4 to 5.14. More than enough to go around! But what makes Red River Gorge climbing unique is the wildly featured Corbin sandstone. Simply put, it's made to climb. The walls tend to be super-steep, but the holds are large and plentiful. You don't have to climb 5.12 get on crazy-steep rock here! Of course, if harder sport climbs are your thing, there is a lifetime's worth here. It is the most popular place in the eastern US to work your way up the grades.

    Volume 2: Red River Gorge South

    This book, Volume 2 of a two-volume series, covers the crags located south of the Mountain Parkway. Fully revised, it describes over 1500 routes, 400 of them new for this edition. Entirely new zones include Flat Hollow, Bear’s Den, and New Zoo, with new routes at famed RRG favorites such as Muir Valley and the Motherlode.

    Areas and features

    Authors

    Ray Ellington has been climbing in the Red for 30 years, has done four previous editions of this guidebook, and is tired of talking about himself on this page. He lives in Lexington, KY, with his wife and climbing partner Michelle, works as an IT Security Architect, and runs his website redriverclimbing.com. Blake Bowling lives and climbs in the Red River Gorge. He spends his time developing new routes, working for the AAC, maintaining his site badbolts.com, a nationwide bolt database where rock climbers can report bolts and anchors that need attention. He also is AMGA-certified, and works closely with the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition to promote safe climbing and protect access for all climbers. Over the past 25 years Blake has ticked over 2000 routes in the Red, holding the top position in the rankings on redriverclimbing.com. Epic 14-hour solo adventure races, high-angle swiftwater and cave rescues, and van life are not foreign to him, but writing in the third person is. You can find Blake in and around the Red River Gorge, adding to his massive tick list, dusting off boulders, and replacing crappy climbing anchors.

    Details

    • Red River Gorge South
    • 2017 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Ray Ellington and Blake Bowling
    • 360 full-color pages
    • 9781938393273
  • About the book

    The best climbs at the entire Red River Gorge, all in one volume!

    Visiting the Red and need a quick list of classics? On a budget and want to buy one book instead of three? Own all three but want a quick reference to the best climbs for a quick trip? Or do you love collecting sweet climbing guidebooks and need to see more inspiring action photos? Then Red River Gorge Select is perfect for you! The Red River Gorge has over 3,000 routes, and Red Select presents enough classics to fill a lifetime of weekend fun. With over 54 crag's worth of routes, you'll have plenty of areas to choose from if you need to escape crowds, rain, or cold.

    Inside the book find handy icons to help plan your day: driving times, walking times, sun exposure, rain protection, and even kid friendliness. You will quickly learn how many routes there are, their grades, and percentage of sport vs trad climbs. GPS coordinates and detailed approach directions help you find your destination easily. Now all there is to do is climb!

    Areas and features

    • Northern Gorge- Military, Left Flank, Funk Rock City, and more
    • Natural Bridge- Roadside, The Zoo, and more
    • Muir Valley- Midnight Surf, Bruise Brother's, Solarium, and more
    • Southern Region- Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, Solar Collector, Gold Coast, Gallery, Drive-by, Bob Marley, and more
    • Miller Fork- Infirmary, Fruit Wall, Cloud 9, Graveyard, and more
    • Handy infographics about each crag for quick reference
     

    Authors

    Born and raised in Slade, KY, Dario Ventura is a true Red River Gorge local. He did his first FA here at the age of 10, with his dad Miguel and RRG legend John Bronaugh and John's son Alex. From this early start, he has moved on to do many more first ascents in the area, especially at Miller Fork. Like his dad, he's got pizza in his blood, and from an early age has been an integral part of the Miguel's Pizza business. He and the rest of the Venturas have made the Red what it is with their ability to bring climbers together from around the world. Dario knows the Red as if it has been his backyard his whole life, which in fact it has. Mike Williams, assistant wordsmith, researcher, and project manager for this book, is a New River Gorge climber, and author of the guidebook for that area. A longtime editor of Deadpoint magazine until that fine publication's demise, he has climbed extensively in the Red, and his love of the area and attention to detail were essential in making this book what it is. Mike lives in Fayetteville, WV, with his wife Elissa and children Hazel and Elliot, where he climbs, writes, and operates Bridge Bound Campers, tricking out Sprinter vans. Ray Ellington has climbed at the Red for 30 years. He first partnered with Wolverine Publishing in 2005 and would go on to write 4 editions of the Red River Gorge guidebook, and self-publish the Miller Fork guide. He lives in Lexington, KY with his wife Michelle and still runs his website redriverclimbing.com.

    Details

    • Red River Gorge Select
    • 2018 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Dario Ventura, Mike Williams, and Ray Ellington
    • 340 full-color pages
    • 9781938393327
  • About the book

    Redwood Burl is a compact yet comprehensive guide to the extensive climbing in Northwest California. The college town of Arcata is the center of a universe of incredible but little-known cragging and bouldering. Sea cliffs, sea lions, river-polished boulders, towering redwoods, hidden limestone caves, and enough climbing to keep you busy for a lifetime. It’s a paradise. For years, road-tripping climbers in the know have visited the limestone of the Trinity Arêtes and the overhanging seaside pockets of Promontory, declaring them some of the best sport crags in CA. This book fully documents these gems, and introduces dozens of other excellent cliffs that have hidden under the radar ... until now! There's a lot packed into this guidebook. You'll find maps to keep you oriented, icons depicting sun and rain aspects, hiking approach times, geology and ecology info, gorgeous color photography, and enough beta on bouldering, sport, and trad climbing to keep you busy whether you're just visiting the area or a seasoned local. $1 of each book sale is donated to the Northwest California Climbers Coalition, whose mission is to preserve and expand local climbing opportunities. Please visit their website at nwca-climbers.org, and feel free to pitch in, any way you can!

    Areas included

    • Coastal areas from Arcata to Crescent City, including Moonstone Beach, Sue-meg (formerly Patricks Point) State Park, Lost Rocks, Promontory
    • More Highway 101 fun down south, Santa Rosa to Arcata
    • 80 pages of Highway 299 crags - Land of the Lost, Cold Springs, Trinity Arêtes, and many more
    • Sweet Highway 36 and Highway 3 crags including the Caverns, Hayfork Haven, Marble Caves
    • The adventurous Siskiyou County region including Cecilville Bluffs and Lovers Leap limestone
    • Many previously undocumented crags, and adventures galore!

    About the author

    Evan Wisheropp has an almost unreasonable love for climbing and insatiable desire to open new climbs. In his quest to explore everything that Northwest California has to offer, he has climbed over 1300 local routes (over 80% of the routes in this book), as well as cleaned, developed, bolted, or rebolted over 400 routes. This is truly a labor of love — he has invested over $20,000 into the climbing infrastructure described in this guide! Evan isn't always out getting dirty with his power drill. He also works his camera to create beautiful imagery, which brings the guidebook to life. You can see some of his professional work here. He and wife Amanda work and live in Arcata. If you see a guy with a drill, say hey! It might be Evan.

    Details

    Redwood Burl: A Climber’s Guide to Northwest California
    2022 Wolverine Publishing
    by Evan Wisheropp
    396 full color pages
    9781938393464
    Need more on Northern California? Check out California Roadtrip!
  • About the book

    Rifle Mountain Park is one of America's best sport-climbing areas, especially for harder grades. The canyon's limestone cliffs have more than 500 established rock climbs, including some of the most difficult in America. Climbers come from all over the world to challenge themselves on the steep, gymnastic routes. But the canyon is much more than just a crucible for the sport's elite. Rifle rock climbing also features plenty of easier fare, suitable for novices and intermediates. Looking for a dense concentration of 5.13 and 5.14 lines? Check. Or is 5.10 your limit? Check — you'll find good routes at that level, too. No matter what grade you climb, you'll appreciate the unique style of movement produced by the blocky limestone, with sidepulls, slopers, laybacks, and kneebars. Combine this spread of great sport climbs with easy access and amazing camping and you have one of the most convenient climbing destinations anywhere. Rifle: A Climber's Guide, now in its 4th edition, celebrates the climbs, climbers, natural beauty, and vibrant scene of Rifle. Learn about the flora and fauna, as well as the cast of characters responsible for the routes. Learn how to kneebar, and how to have fun falling off your project 100 times! And while you're at it, enjoy the great photography from some of the country's best-known shooters. $1 from the sale of each book goes to the Rifle Climbers' Coalition, a volunteer group that maintains Rifle bolts and anchors. When in Rifle, be sure to check out the hot springs in nearby Glenwood Springs. Nothing like a good soak to ease weary muscles on a rest day.

    Book features

    • all new beta photos and new easier-to-use layout
    • handy color-coded grades for quick reference
    • wonderfully colorful and quirky descriptions
    • over 100 new climbs since the last edition
    • essays from pioneers such as Mike Pont, George Squibb, and young guns like Margo Hayes

    About the author

    Darek Krol sadly passed away in December 2020, at the age of 57, just days after handing off completed drafts of this guide. A native of Poland, he immigrated to Boulder, CO in 1997. He established over 30 routes in the canyon (and ticked 400 overall), and as the de-facto chief climbing steward of the area became known as "mayor of Rifle." Beyond climbing, Darek was a wonderful human being to be around. He made everyone feel known and important, and Rifle feels a little bit colder without his presence. Darek is survived by his "Noble Wife," Anita, and their daughter, Nina.

    Details

    • Rifle: A Climber's Guide (4th edition)
    • 2021 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Darek Krol
    • 304 full-color pages
    • 9781938393419
     
  • About the book

    Riverside Quarry: it's no wilderness area; in fact, it's an old quarry. So why is it one of the premier sport-climbing destinations in Southern California? Simple answer: great climbing. You'll find the usual array of natural granite holds, plus many features that derive from quarrying operations and ... other human activities. Steep, pumpy climbs: check. Old junked cars: check. A good time: check. Riverside Quarry by Louie Anderson is a sport climbing guide to the Riverside Rock Quarry, featuring over 300 routes in this newly revised 2nd edition in full color. Written by the main developer, this guidebook shares the history and the development of the crag, full color photos and topos, route specific profiles of the best routes, bolt counts, standards, amenities, directions, and just about everything a visitor would need to know. The Riverside Quarry has quickly become the premier sport climbing destination in the region. Its cliff line offers superb climbing on steep, featured granite. Unlike other local areas, the routes here are long; many of them over 100 feet in length. Not only will you find sport climbing, but a handful of excellent quality crack challenges as well. With over 338 routes to choose from, there is literally something for everyone. All of this on a crag that's centrally located to all of Southern California, and with one of the shortest approaches around.

    About the author

    Louie Anderson has been climbing since the age of 8. In the years since, he's done it all from boulders to big walls. However, his main interest is in developing new routes, and he has developed many of the routes in this guide. He has also developed routes in areas like Frustration Creek and the Santa Monicas; check out his guidebooks for there as well!

    Details

    • Climber's Guide: Riverside Quarry
    • 2012 Louie Anderson
    • by Louie Anderson
    • 200 full-color pages
    • 9780976663003
  • Sale!
    PLEASE NOTE: As of 2019, Riverside Quarry climbing is temporarily closed. See the Southern California Climbers' Coalition for more.

    Blemished during transport. May include dents, scratches, or slight warping to the cover and/or interior pages. If you're looking to save a bit of money, blemished copies are a great value!

  • About the book

    The Sierra Nevada has unsurpassed road biking: good pavement, quiet roads, huge climbs, long open expanses, and breathtaking views of some of the tallest peaks in the Lower 48. Detailing 48 classic rides from casual to ultra, showcasing the landscape of a 270-mile stretch of the range, this color book will quicken the pulse of anyone who loves to bike. In addition, find descriptions, maps, elevation profiles, and trip tips.

    About the Authors

    Jim Barnes is a corn-fed Midwestern kid who discovered the West in his twenties and now can't imagine leaving the mountains. A jack-of-all-trades, he has yet to master anything but keeps trying. Mountain biking was his original mountain sport; and since then backcountry skiing, snowboarding, and Nordic skiing have filled the void in the winter. Rock climbing, mountaineering, and cycling keep him busy during the summer. In a nutshell, he loves to play. Nate Greenberg is a skinny computer nerd with an engine like a Mack truck. Growing up in Southern California, he spent plenty of time in and around the Eastern Sierra, and moved to Mammoth Lakes immediately following college. His time is divided by the seasons into his two main passions of skiing and climbing, though road biking plays an ever increasing role in his summer routine.

    Details

    • Road Biking California's Sierra Nevada
    • 2011 Wolverine Publishing
    • by Jim Barnes and Nate Greenberg
    • 164 full-color pages
    • 9780982615461
  • About the book

    The Rock Warrior's Way is the definitive mental training manual for climbers. Learn to focus attention, overcome fear, use effective strategies, and build powerful habits. Getting strong in the gym can help improve your climbing, but an effective mental game will help you learn to apply that strength. A strong mind is the key to becoming powerful on the rock. Drawing from "warrior" literature (as well as sports psychology), The Rock Warrior's Way is the ultimate tool to help improve your performance and gain more enjoyment from your climbing. Find the companion to The Rock Warrior's Way, known as Espresso Lessons, here.

    About the author

    Arno Ilgner (from his website warrior'sway.com): In 1995, after a thorough search of the literature and practice of mental training and the great warrior traditions, Ilgner formalized his methods, founded the Desiderata Institute, and began teaching his program full time. Since then, he has helped hundreds of students sharpen their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. Ilgner considers the joy and satisfaction in the effort – the “journey” – intimately linked to successful attainment of goals, the “destination.” Alumni of his courses now include some of the nation’s most prominent climbers. Ilgner has run clinics across the USA and Australia. He has worked with young competition climbers and written national magazine articles based on his methods. He holds a BA in geology, spent several years operating his own geological consulting firm in the Wyoming oil fields, acted as Chief Financial Officer for an industrial tool distribution company, attended the Army Ranger School, and served a non-combat tour of duty in Korea. He currently resides with his family near Nashville, Tennessee.

    Details

    • The Rock Warrior's Way
    • 2003 Desiderata Institute
    • by Arno Illgner
    • 146 B&W pages
    • 9780974011219

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