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Chattrad features the best sandstone trad in the country, bar none.As the first-ever comprehensive guidebook to Chattanooga trad climbing, Chattrad covers hundreds of never-before-published routes, from multiple never-before-published areas – making Chattrad a guidebook like no other! Journey to this fantastic place with legendary character and guidebook author Rob Robinson.
- Over 500 color pages
- Local-born content from Chattanoga climbing pioneer and author, Rob Robinson – as well as many local artists, photographers, and climbers
- Beautiful, accurate, and easy-to-use layout and design
- Tons of never-before-published areas, routes, and recommendations
- Precision area logistics, firsthand route descriptions, and consensus reviews
- Tons of never-before-seen historic photos and exhaustive insider commentary and essays from the past 30 years of Chattanooga rock climbing
Areas covered in Chattrad
- Sunset Park
- Suck Creek
- Tennessee Wall (T-Wall)
- Promised Land
- Big Soddy Gorge
About the authorThis isn't Rob Robinson's first rodeo writing climbing guidebooks — he's done four previous guidebooks to the area. He's the leading authority on climbing in the "Sandstone Belt of the South," cherry picking bold new lines since 1975. Rob has established over 1000 first ascents in the Chattanooga area and beyond. He has appeared on the cover of Climbing magazine, and has written essays in Climbing and Rock and Ice magazines. Read more about Rob in this 2017 Climbing magazine article. Rob works in real estate, and lives with wife Susan on Signal Mountain, spitting distance from some of his favorite crags.
- 2014 Rockery Press
- by Rob Robinson
- 548 pages. Color.
About the bookThe City of Rocks and Castle Rocks State Park is your essential companion for the amazing granite climbing in the high desert of southern Idaho, one of the most popular summer rock-climbing areas in the Rocky Mountain West. Other landmarks have been christened “City of Rocks,” but to climbers this one is THE City. It’s been called America’s premiere granite sport-climbing area — and just as often praised for its unique trad climbing. With more than 1000 routes to choose from, you can crimp overhanging patina, grunt up an offwidth, cruise a multi-pitch 5.8, or summit a dramatic spire — all within a short walk of your campsite. Nearby you’ll find historic inscriptions, hikes, mountain biking, and the funky Western town of Almo to keep you supplied and entertained on rest days. Also included here for the first time is the sweet climbing at nearby Castle Rocks State Park. With a different, quieter vibe than the roadside crags in the City, Castle Rocks is a worthy destination in itself, with over 300 routes up to three pitches long, featuring many moderate climbs with a more “modern,” novice-friendly equipping style. Dave Bingham has been chronicling the climbing at City of Rocks since the 1980s, but this is the breakthrough edition, with full-color cliff photographs throughout and excellent maps that put an end to the days of wandering lost in search of your desired crag. The action photography alone will have you planning your trip immediately.
- City of Rocks
- Castle Rocks State Park
About the authorBorn on Long Island, NY, Dave Bingham spent his childhood in the Northeast, learning to ski and climb in his early teens before moving out West in the 1970s. He spent summers in Yosemite and winters near Sun Valley, Idaho, guiding rock and teaching cross-country skiing and soon making his permanent home in the Sun Valley area. Dave lives in Hailey, with his wife Lisa, where he runs a log-home chinking business, Dave Bingham Chinking. He still drags out his college-age-and-younger children Tara, Cameron, Jack, and Kate on a variety of mountain adventures. Dave’s curriculum vitae in adventure sports is impressive: a lifelong athlete and competitor, he has won many Nordic ski and running races in Idaho, and has placed as high as 3rd (1980) in the famous Pikes Peak Marathon. In 1988 and 1990 he won the notorious NBC Survival of the Fittest contest, an old-school, now-defunct version of today’s American Ninja Warrior — but held outside in much more dangerous terrain, featuring stunts such as speed rappelling, whitewater swimming, downhill running, and a log-rolling/stick-fighting battle thing. Dave went on to enter the even more grueling BBC Arctic Survival comp, winning in 1990 and 1992. Dave also set the speed record for ascending all nine of Idaho’s peaks over 12,000 feet: 38 hours, besting the previous record by two days (check out the current record holders). On the rock-climbing front, Dave is a longtime and prolific new-router, with over 200 first ascents up to 5.13, spread over 30+ years, in the City of Rocks alone. Though an “early adopter” of the sport-climbing ethic in the mid 1980s, Dave is a true all-arounder, with many trad ascents in the City, the Elephant’s Perch in the Sawtooths, and farther afield. Though still putting up new routes, Dave is now more of a mentor on the Idaho climbing scene. In addition to authoring eight editions of the climber’s guide to City of Rocks, Dave is also the author of Idaho Underground, an eclectic guide to southern Idaho crags and boulders.
- City of Rocks
- 2016 Wolverine Publishing
- by Dave Bingham
- 312 full-color pages
About Climbing PsychologyEver experienced a fear of falling, fear of failure, or any other negative thoughts that distract you from climbing your best? Author Kevin Roet's interest in climbing psychology developed because of direct experience with his own fear of falling. If you would like to push your limits instead of finding a myriad of reasons to say "take", then this book is for you. Rooted in modern psychological concepts like Cognitive Behavioral Therapy and current scientific research, the book will help break down your fear response and allow you to shift your focus away from your fear. Kevin runs workshops on climbing psychology and has solicited feedback from students, honing his concepts into a very readable and colorfully illustrated book. For an informative review, as well as an inside look into the table of contents and a few pages from the book, check out this article on UKClimbing.com.
- Color photographs and illustrations
- Essays and thoughts from experienced and professional climbers
- Exercises and practical advice, including QR code links to supplemental material
About the authorKevin Roet is a mountain guide, and runs a mountain skills and training company in the UK called Rise and Summit. He also is a climbing coach, consultant, and runs workshops. He loves climbing and helping other folks gain the experience and confidence to climb their very best.
- Climbing Psychology
- 2021 Kevin Roet
- 208 pages, illustrated in color
About the bookWisconsin's Devil’s Lake State Park is, hands down, the Midwest’s premier rock-climbing area. With its many, many routes in the more moderate grades, and the wide range of techniques required to ascend them, it has even been called the best place in the country to learn to climb. Located just northwest of Madison, it is the closest major crag for countless Midwest climbers, from Chicago to Des Moines, Milwaukee to the Twin Cities. The Lake also features great hiking, swimming, and camping. The unique quartzite rock is a wonder of nature, notable for its vibrant purple color and made-to-climb texture. From ladder-like beginner’s romps, to strenuous crack leads, to desperate glassy faces, you’ll find something perfect to suit every mood. There are no bolts at Devil’s Lake, and though the bullet-hard stone offers many fine lead climbs, toproping is widely practiced, leading to a fun, community atmosphere where climbers can test themselves to the limit with minimal risk and maximum focus on precision movement. Check out this website by the local guide service for tips on setting up toprope anchors at Devil's Lake. Mastery of small holds is a hallmark of Lake-trained rock climbers who venture out to other areas of the country. Your training will serve you well! In addition to describing almost 900 climbs at all the cliffs of Devil’s Lake State Park, this book also devotes over 20 pages on two nearby areas, Necedah and Hillbilly Hollow, which feature a different kind of rock, and even a little bolted sport climbing and a smattering of the best bouldering.
- Almost 1000 rock climbs
- the 40 best boulder problems
- Area maps and schematics
- Geology, flora, and fauna
- Detailed climbing history
- Guide to park rules, camping options, and local amenities
- Colorful essays by John Gill, Leo Hermacinski, Steve Sangdahl, Nick Rhoads, and others
- Dozens of inspring action photos
Areas included in Devil's Lake
- East Bluff
- West Bluff
- Sandstone Bluff
- Hillbilly Hollow
About the AuthorJay Knower, 38, grew up in Baraboo, WI, with Devil’s Lake in his backyard, and began climbing there as a teenager in 1993. This introduction to rock climbing did the trick, and he has gone on to visit crags all over the world, climbing up to 5.13a trad and 5.14a sport and establishing many new routes. Jay met his wife Kayte in Yosemite’s Camp 4, and the couple moved to New Hampshire together in 2003 and have lived there ever since — though Jay makes it a point to get back to Devil’s Lake at least once a year to visit family and test himself on his beloved home quartzite. Jay holds a B.A. in English and an M.Ed. in English Education, and has worked in education his entire adult life. His writing has appeared in Climbing Magazine, The Canadian Alpine Journal, and The New Hampshire Journal of Education. A lifelong runner, Jay has completed two marathons, and every year he threatens to run another one (but doesn’t). He currently lives in Campton, New Hampshire, with Kayte, their daughter June, and Topher the Mountain Poodle.
- Devil's Lake: A Climbing Guide
- 2016 Wolverine Publishing
- by Jay Knower
- 308 full-color pages
About the bookEspresso Lessons is the companion to Rock Warrior's Way, with practical exercises. A good cup of espresso is big coffee in a small cup. Likewise, Espresso Lessons concentrates the essence of the Rock Warrior's Way method. You'll need the original Rock Warrior's Way for the bigger story behind the practice, but for no-nonsense exercises to help you improve your mental game on the rock, this book is a gem. Here is a blurb by Julie Ellison of Climbing Magazine about Espresso Lessons.
About the authorArno Ilgner (from his website warrior’sway.com): In 1995, after a thorough search of the literature and practice of mental training and the great warrior traditions, Ilgner formalized his methods, founded the Desiderata Institute, and began teaching his program full time. Since then, he has helped hundreds of students sharpen their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. Ilgner considers the joy and satisfaction in the effort – the “journey” – intimately linked to successful attainment of goals, the “destination.” Alumni of his courses now include some of the nation’s most prominent climbers. Ilgner has run clinics across the USA and Australia. He has worked with young competition climbers and written national magazine articles based on his methods. He holds a BA in geology, spent several years operating his own geological consulting firm in the Wyoming oil fields, acted as Chief Financial Officer for an industrial tool distribution company, attended the Army Ranger School, and served a non-combat tour of duty in Korea. He currently resides with his family near Nashville, Tennessee.
- Espresso Lessons
- 2009 Desdierata Institute
- by Arno Ilgner
- 115 B&W pages
TEMPORARY UPDATE 1/06/2022: Frustration Creek areas are currently closed due to fire damage and rockfall!
About the bookA Climber's Guide to Frustration Creek describes a collection of areas in the lower San Bernardino Mountains of Southern California. This area feels remote, but is conveniently located only a half hour drive from Riverside. The book has all of the route photos and maps that you need to get you oriented. You'll find lots of action photos, as well as area and historical information. Escape the summer heat and the bustling city with a trip to Frustration Creek with this guide as your companion. Even your non-climbing partners will enjoy the area, with Big Bear Lake and other mountain attractions nearby. And, since you're looking at this book, we thought you might also be interested in one of our newest titles, "A Climber's Guide to Big Bear Lake & Holcomb Valley Pinnacles" by Brandon Copp. Also featuring never-before-published areas, this book is a great companion to Frustration Creek!
- Mill Creek Wash
- Rocky Hollow
- Thurman Flats
- Monkey Face Falls
- Mountain Home Creek
- Frustration Creek
About the authorLouie Anderson was one of the first to explore the Frustration Creek area and established many new routes and boulder problems. It took some time to publish this book because things just wouldn't settle down in the area. Natural events such as flash floods and landslides were constantly changing the canyon. New routes just kept going up. In his words, "at long last, the secrets of the lower San Bernardino Mountain climbing areas are revealed" in this complete, accurate guidebook. He now lives in Ten Sleep, Wyoming with wife Valerie, and runs the Ten Sleep Canyon Rock Ranch. Check out his guide to the climbing at Ten Sleep Canyon!
- Climber's Guide to Frustration Creek 1st edition
- 2020 Louie Anderson
- by Louie Anderson
- 200 full-color pages
About the bookSetting good climbing routes in the gym is about a lot more than just the shape and size of the holds. Inside Fundamentals of Routesetting you will learn important skills such as how to accommodate tall and short climbers, promote creative technique, control a route's tempo, and minimize risk of injury. Our sport has been lacking in a written reference to help teach and standardize routesetting activities. In 2004, The Art of Coursesetting was written to meet that need. Fundamentals of Routesetting is essentially a new edition that has been updated to reflect the changes in our industry since that time. A brief overview of all relevant topics is offered, with enough detail to educate and get setters started, but leaving plenty of room for individual creativity and implementation. Scott Rennak (founder of the popular American Bouldering Series - ABS) has put together an informative section on competition organization, management and formatting options. This wisdom is the culmination of hundreds of successful competitions and offers the insight necessary to make your event all that it can be. Also included are essays from several premier routesetters such as Chris Danielson, Molly Beard and Matt Bosley.
About the authorWritten by nationally recognized master routesetter, Louie Anderson. Louie owns "The Factory Bouldering Gym" in Orange, CA, and currently resides in Tensleep, WY with his wife and climbing partner, Valarie, and their two daughters. He is also author of Riverside Quarry and Sport Climbing the Santa Monicas, as well as Ten Sleep Canyon Climbing. Here is an interesting interview in Climbing Business Journal if you'd like to read more about Louie's thoughts about the trends in routesetting and gyms in North America.
- Fundamentals of Routesetting
- 2014 Louie Anderson
- by Louie Anderson
- 236 full-color pages
About the bookGunks Bouldering! This is New York City climbers’ favorite place to play, and Andy Salo and Hillary Guzik have done a spectacular job of presenting it. Just outside the lively town of New Paltz, two hours from the City, lie the historic rocks of the Shawangunks, ground zero for countless dedicated climbers. There’s great (and famous) roped climbing at the Gunks, but the bouldering here also rocks. With easy access and a decades-long parade of climbing’s who’s-who passing thorugh, the bouldering here has deep roots, with classic blocs dating back 50 years. Many problems rise directly from carriage roads that provide casual approaches — and perfectly flat landings. This is the definitive bouldering guide to the region, brought to you by the core local team that created the well-known Gunks Apps.
Areas covered in Gunks Bouldering
- Trapps - 22 areas
- Near Trapps - 5 areas
- Peter’s Kill - 9 areas
- Over 600 problems in all
- Durable, sewn binding
- Clear and detailed maps of the boulder fields
- Photos of pretty much every boulder
- Routes color-coded by difficulty
- Full bouldering history complete with funky old photos
- Sweet action shots from over 30 photographers
- Full “climber’s pick” restaurant guide to New Paltz
- Lodging and rest-day recommendations
About the authorsAndy Salo has bouldered in the Gunks since the late 1990s. In addition to opening many fine, hard problems, Andy’s proudest contribution to the guidebook is the unearthing of all the old history of Peter’s Kill and Trapps bouldering. After completing this book, he turned his attention to documenting Gunks roped routes - Gunks Climbing was released in spring of 2021. Hillary Guzik is a microscopist, entomologist, and photographer, and has been climbing around the Gunks since 2009. Her proudest contribution to the guidebook was making sure all of her favorite V0’s made it in. Her favorite Gunks climbs include Tweaky Crack (V3) and Baby Problem (V0) in the Trapps, and Won’t You? (V1) in Peter’s Kill.
- Gunks Bouldering
- 2018 Wolverine Publishing
- by Andy Salo and Hillary Guzik
- 224 full-color pages