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Devil’s Lake
$34.00
About the book
Wisconsin's Devil’s Lake State Park is, hands down, the Midwest’s premier rock-climbing area. With its many, many routes in the more moderate grades, and the wide range of techniques required to ascend them, it has even been called the best place in the country to learn to climb. Located just northwest of Madison, it is the closest major crag for countless Midwest climbers, from Chicago to Des Moines, Milwaukee to the Twin Cities. The Lake also features great hiking, swimming, and camping. The unique quartzite rock is a wonder of nature, notable for its vibrant purple color and made-to-climb texture. From ladder-like beginner’s romps, to strenuous crack leads, to desperate glassy faces, you’ll find something perfect to suit every mood. There are no bolts at Devil’s Lake, and though the bullet-hard stone offers many fine lead climbs, toproping is widely practiced, leading to a fun, community atmosphere where climbers can test themselves to the limit with minimal risk and maximum focus on precision movement. Check out this website by the local guide service for tips on setting up toprope anchors at Devil's Lake. Mastery of small holds is a hallmark of Lake-trained rock climbers who venture out to other areas of the country. Your training will serve you well! In addition to describing almost 900 climbs at all the cliffs of Devil’s Lake State Park, this book also devotes over 20 pages on two nearby areas, Necedah and Hillbilly Hollow, which feature a different kind of rock, and even a little bolted sport climbing and a smattering of the best bouldering.
Featuring
Almost 1000 rock climbs
the 40 best boulder problems
Area maps and schematics
Geology, flora, and fauna
Detailed climbing history
Guide to park rules, camping options, and local amenities
Colorful essays by John Gill, Leo Hermacinski, Steve Sangdahl, Nick Rhoads, and others
Dozens of inspring action photos
Areas included in Devil's Lake
East Bluff
West Bluff
Sandstone Bluff
Necedah
Hillbilly Hollow
About the Author
Jay Knower, 38, grew up in Baraboo, WI, with Devil’s Lake in his backyard, and began climbing there as a teenager in 1993. This introduction to rock climbing did the trick, and he has gone on to visit crags all over the world, climbing up to 5.13a trad and 5.14a sport and establishing many new routes. Jay met his wife Kayte in Yosemite’s Camp 4, and the couple moved to New Hampshire together in 2003 and have lived there ever since — though Jay makes it a point to get back to Devil’s Lake at least once a year to visit family and test himself on his beloved home quartzite. Jay holds a B.A. in English and an M.Ed. in English Education, and has worked in education his entire adult life. His writing has appeared in Climbing Magazine, The Canadian Alpine Journal, and The New Hampshire Journal of Education. A lifelong runner, Jay has completed two marathons, and every year he threatens to run another one (but doesn’t). He currently lives in Campton, New Hampshire, with Kayte, their daughter June, and Topher the Mountain Poodle.
Details
Devil's Lake: A Climbing Guide
2016 Wolverine Publishing
by Jay Knower
308 full-color pages
9781938393259
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Espresso Lessons
$19.95
About the book
Espresso Lessons is the companion to Rock Warrior's Way, with practical exercises. A good cup of espresso is big coffee in a small cup. Likewise, Espresso Lessons concentrates the essence of the Rock Warrior's Way method. You'll need the original Rock Warrior's Way for the bigger story behind the practice, but for no-nonsense exercises to help you improve your mental game on the rock, this book is a gem. Here is a blurb by Julie Ellison of Climbing Magazine about Espresso Lessons.
About the author
Arno Ilgner (from his website warrior’sway.com): In 1995, after a thorough search of the literature and practice of mental training and the great warrior traditions, Ilgner formalized his methods, founded the Desiderata Institute, and began teaching his program full time. Since then, he has helped hundreds of students sharpen their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. Ilgner considers the joy and satisfaction in the effort – the “journey” – intimately linked to successful attainment of goals, the “destination.” Alumni of his courses now include some of the nation’s most prominent climbers. Ilgner has run clinics across the USA and Australia. He has worked with young competition climbers and written national magazine articles based on his methods. He holds a BA in geology, spent several years operating his own geological consulting firm in the Wyoming oil fields, acted as Chief Financial Officer for an industrial tool distribution company, attended the Army Ranger School, and served a non-combat tour of duty in Korea. He currently resides with his family near Nashville, Tennessee.
Details:
Espresso Lessons
2009 Desdierata Institute
by Arno Ilgner
115 B&W pages
9780974011233
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Fresno Dome Rock Climbing Guide
$35.00
About the book
Situated in the western Sierra near the town of Oakhurst, Fresno Dome offers a cool respite from the California summer heat. There are great gear routes, as well as a few modern overhanging sport climbs. 500-foot multi-pitch? Check. Free camping? Yup. Views? You betcha. This great little book covers over 350 pitches of excellent granite climbing in the Central California mountains. This compact guide covers the main area of Fresno Dome, plus several nearby "bonus" crags -- Lewis Creek, Lost in the Forest, Ukraine Dome, and Willow Creek. Topo maps orient you, and elevations, sun exposure, and driving info all conspire to ease your planning woes. The area history section recounts the pursuits of area legends such as Fred Becky, Royal Robbins, and Doug Robinson. A moderate climber's dream come true, Fresno Dome is a fantastic summer destination!
Author
Grahm Doe is a prolific new router, and also is author of the out-of-print Shuteye Ridge guide. He moved to the area in 2004 with his partner, Trish, and began climbing at Fresno Dome shortly thereafter. In addition to writing this much-needed modern guide, he has put up new climbs, in addition to rebolting and upgrading, old, manky gear.
Details
Fresno Dome Rock Climbing Guide 1st edition
2023 Grahm Doe (self published)
by Grahm Doe
158 color pages
9410120000
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Frustration Creek
$35.00
TEMPORARY UPDATE 1/06/2022: Frustration Creek areas are currently closed due to fire damage and rockfall!
About the book
A Climber's Guide to Frustration Creek describes a collection of areas in the lower San Bernardino Mountains of Southern California. This area feels remote, but is conveniently located only a half hour drive from Riverside. The book has all of the route photos and maps that you need to get you oriented. You'll find lots of action photos, as well as area and historical information. Escape the summer heat and the bustling city with a trip to Frustration Creek with this guide as your companion. Even your non-climbing partners will enjoy the area, with Big Bear Lake and other mountain attractions nearby. And, since you're looking at this book, we thought you might also be interested in one of our newest titles, "A Climber's Guide to Big Bear Lake & Holcomb Valley Pinnacles" by Brandon Copp. Also featuring never-before-published areas, this book is a great companion to Frustration Creek!
Areas included
Mill Creek Wash
Rocky Hollow
Thurman Flats
Monkey Face Falls
Mountain Home Creek
Frustration Creek
About the author
Louie Anderson was one of the first to explore the Frustration Creek area and established many new routes and boulder problems. It took some time to publish this book because things just wouldn't settle down in the area. Natural events such as flash floods and landslides were constantly changing the canyon. New routes just kept going up. In his words, "at long last, the secrets of the lower San Bernardino Mountain climbing areas are revealed" in this complete, accurate guidebook. He now lives in Ten Sleep, Wyoming with wife Valerie, and runs the Ten Sleep Canyon Rock Ranch. Check out his guide to the climbing at Ten Sleep Canyon!
Details
Climber's Guide to Frustration Creek 1st edition
2020 Louie Anderson
by Louie Anderson
200 full-color pages
9780976663089
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Fundamentals of Routesetting
$23.95
About the book
Setting good climbing routes in the gym is about a lot more than just the shape and size of the holds. Inside Fundamentals of Routesetting you will learn important skills such as how to accommodate tall and short climbers, promote creative technique, control a route's tempo, and minimize risk of injury. Our sport has been lacking in a written reference to help teach and standardize routesetting activities. In 2004, The Art of Coursesetting was written to meet that need. Fundamentals of Routesetting is essentially a new edition that has been updated to reflect the changes in our industry since that time. A brief overview of all relevant topics is offered, with enough detail to educate and get setters started, but leaving plenty of room for individual creativity and implementation. Scott Rennak (founder of the popular American Bouldering Series - ABS) has put together an informative section on competition organization, management and formatting options. This wisdom is the culmination of hundreds of successful competitions and offers the insight necessary to make your event all that it can be. Also included are essays from several premier routesetters such as Chris Danielson, Molly Beard and Matt Bosley.
About the author
Written by nationally recognized master routesetter, Louie Anderson. Louie owns "The Factory Bouldering Gym" in Orange, CA, and currently resides in Tensleep, WY with his wife and climbing partner, Valarie, and their two daughters. He is also author of Riverside Quarry and Sport Climbing the Santa Monicas, as well as Ten Sleep Canyon Climbing. Here is an interesting interview in Climbing Business Journal if you'd like to read more about Louie's thoughts about the trends in routesetting and gyms in North America.
Details
Fundamentals of Routesetting
2014 Louie Anderson
by Louie Anderson
236 full-color pages
9780976663010
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Gunks Bouldering
$35.00
About the book
Gunks Bouldering! This is New York City climbers’ favorite place to play, and Andy Salo and Hillary Guzik have done a spectacular job of presenting it. Just outside the lively town of New Paltz, two hours from the City, lie the historic rocks of the Shawangunks, ground zero for countless dedicated climbers. There’s great (and famous) roped climbing at the Gunks, but the bouldering here also rocks. With easy access and a decades-long parade of climbing’s who’s-who passing thorugh, the bouldering here has deep roots, with classic blocs dating back 50 years. Many problems rise directly from carriage roads that provide casual approaches — and perfectly flat landings. This is the definitive bouldering guide to the region, brought to you by the core local team that created the well-known Gunks Apps.
Areas covered in Gunks Bouldering
Trapps - 22 areas
Near Trapps - 5 areas
Peter’s Kill - 9 areas
Over 600 problems in all
Consider picking up a copy of New England Bouldering for more great bouldering nearby! Or to round out the Gunks set, the classic trad climbs are covered in Gunks Climbing.
Featuring
Durable, sewn binding
Clear and detailed maps of the boulder fields
Photos of pretty much every boulder
Routes color-coded by difficulty
Full bouldering history complete with funky old photos
Sweet action shots from over 30 photographers
Full “climber’s pick” restaurant guide to New Paltz
Lodging and rest-day recommendations
About the authors
Andy Salo has bouldered in the Gunks since the late 1990s. In addition to opening many fine, hard problems, Andy’s proudest contribution to the guidebook is the unearthing of all the old history of Peter’s Kill and Trapps bouldering. After completing this book, he turned his attention to documenting Gunks roped routes - Gunks Climbing was released in spring of 2021. Hillary Guzik is a microscopist, entomologist, and photographer, and has been climbing around the Gunks since 2009. Her proudest contribution to the guidebook was making sure all of her favorite V0’s made it in. Her favorite Gunks climbs include Tweaky Crack (V3) and Baby Problem (V0) in the Trapps, and Won’t You? (V1) in Peter’s Kill.
Details
Gunks Bouldering
2018 Wolverine Publishing
by Andy Salo and Hillary Guzik
224 full-color pages
9781938393310
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Gunks Bouldering (Blemished)
$25.00
Blemished during transport. May include dents, scratches, or slight warping to the cover and/or interior pages. If you're looking to save a bit of money, blemished copies are a great value!
About the book
Gunks Bouldering! This is New York City climbers’ favorite place to play, and Andy Salo and Hillary Guzik have done a spectacular job of presenting it. Just outside the lively town of New Paltz, two hours from the City, lie the historic rocks of the Shawangunks, ground zero for countless dedicated climbers. There’s great (and famous) roped climbing at the Gunks, but the bouldering here also rocks. With easy access and a decades-long parade of climbing’s who’s-who passing thorugh, the bouldering here has deep roots, with classic blocs dating back 50 years. Many problems rise directly from carriage roads that provide casual approaches — and perfectly flat landings. This is the definitive bouldering guide to the region, brought to you by the core local team that created the well-known Gunks Apps.
Areas covered in Gunks Bouldering
Trapps - 22 areas
Near Trapps - 5 areas
Peter’s Kill - 9 areas
Over 600 problems in all
Consider picking up a copy of New England Bouldering for more great bouldering nearby! Or to round out the Gunks set, the classic trad climbs are covered in Gunks Climbing.
Featuring
Durable, sewn binding
Clear and detailed maps of the boulder fields
Photos of pretty much every boulder
Routes color-coded by difficulty
Full bouldering history complete with funky old photos
Sweet action shots from over 30 photographers
Full “climber’s pick” restaurant guide to New Paltz
Lodging and rest-day recommendations
About the authors
Andy Salo has bouldered in the Gunks since the late 1990s. In addition to opening many fine, hard problems, Andy’s proudest contribution to the guidebook is the unearthing of all the old history of Peter’s Kill and Trapps bouldering. After completing this book, he turned his attention to documenting Gunks roped routes - Gunks Climbing was released in spring of 2021. Hillary Guzik is a microscopist, entomologist, and photographer, and has been climbing around the Gunks since 2009. Her proudest contribution to the guidebook was making sure all of her favorite V0’s made it in. Her favorite Gunks climbs include Tweaky Crack (V3) and Baby Problem (V0) in the Trapps, and Won’t You? (V1) in Peter’s Kill.
Details
Gunks Bouldering
2018 Wolverine Publishing
by Andy Salo and Hillary Guzik
224 full-color pages
9781938393310
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Gunks Climbing
$50.00
About the book
The Shawangunks — “the Gunks” to most of us — is one of the oldest climbing areas in the US, with a storied history dating back to the 1930s. Located 80 miles north of New York City, it has long been a focal point of rock-climbing culture, and remains a traditional climber’s paradise. There is no shortage of very difficult routes that will challenge the best climbers, but the Gunks is even more famous for its incredible easier climbs. You could spend several seasons exploring made-to-climb cracks, faces, overhangs, and dihedrals without ever venturing beyond the 5.7 grade! Multi-pitch outings abound, and the graded carriage road at the base of the cliffs allows easy strolls to even the most distant ends of the cliff.
This full-color, ruthlessly researched guide represents the “next generation” of Gunks guidebooks. It covers over 600 routes at the two main cliffs: the Trapps and Near Trapps. Cliff-base photos get you quickly oriented on the ground, and high-resolution aerial images show key features on routes. Detailed area and route descriptions help you find just the right flavor of climb. You’ll spend less time searching, and more time pulling overhangs, plugging cams, and chasing your own piece of history.
Areas and features
Trapps — Keyhole to Slime Wall (21 sectors)
Near Trapps — right end to Workout Wall (3 sectors)
Aerial cliff photos
Cliff-base photos
Trailhead-locator photos
Helpful sector summaries for choosing where to climb
Action photography from past and present eras
Detailed regional and climbing history
Biographical essays of 10 famed Gunks climbers
Graded list of routes
Looking for more? Gunks Bouldering describes over 600 boulder problems.
Authors
Andy Salo grew up outside Rochester, New York, and began climbing at age 14. He first visited the Gunks soon after, and moved there full time in 2004. Andy’s hard Gunks first ascents are local lore, including Brozone (5.14a), Over the Moon (5.13c), Fire Gild (5.13c R), Corkscrew Roof (V12), Chaotic Stability (V10), and Ideas Are Bulletproof (V10). Having recently relocated to Burlington, VT, he’s super proud of this project and is forever grateful to the Gunks. He is also author of Gunks Bouldering. Christian Fracchia grew up in Glens Falls, New York. A lifelong climber with 36 years of Gunks experience, he spent his formative years climbing rock and ice in the Gunks, Catskills, Adirondacks, and White Mountains before settling in New Paltz in 2000. A high-school physics teacher, Christian has also devoted his summers to climbing around the world, most recently spending his time in the Dolomites of Italy. He is the author and creator of Gunks Apps. His notable Gunks first ascents include The Zoomulator (5.12a), Word of Mouth (5.12b), Indiana Jones (5.12a X), Future Shock Direct (5.12c R/X) in the Trapps, and The Past Recaptured (5.12a), at Millbrook, his favorite Gunks cliff. An architect and designer by education, Eric Ratkowski grew up in Detroit, Michigan, and has climbed in the Gunks for 14 years, guiding professionally for 6 of those. His community contributions include editing for the AAC’s Accidents in North American Climbing and working as a ranger at the Mohonk Preserve. Eric has climbed in eight countries and four continents. He’s climbed and guided at a hundred different areas in the United States, and claims to have “never climbed anything of note.”
Details
Gunks Climbing
2021 Wolverine Publishing
by Andy Salo, Christian Fracchia, and Eric Ratkowski
468 full-color pages
9781938393389
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Hiking and Biking in the New River Gorge
$28.00
About the book
The New River Gorge region of West Virginia is a hiker's and biker's paradise, and this book covers 119 of its best trails. The New River Gorge National Park and Preserve and surrounding state parks encompass more than 80,000 acres of beautiful Appalachian forest and river environment. The area is an outdoor-lover's dream, full of enough adventure opportunities (including rock climbing, of course!) to keep a person busy for a lifetime. This guide is the bible of New River Gorge hiking and biking, and a perfect introduction to the area itself. It will get you on the trails as quickly as possible, and show you the wide range of opportunities, on and off trail.
Your play time is precious
We know how that is, and this book will help you maximize the time you have. Easy-to-read icons let you see details at a glance: trail type (hike, bike, run, cross-country ski, horseback, and/or handicap-accessible), mileage, elevation profile, and overall difficulty. The guide's detailed text, plentiful photos, topographic maps, and elevation charts will keep you on track. Helpful appendices include Lodging, Restaurants, Shops, Outfitters and Guides; Map Resources; and Recommended Reading. In short, you'll find everything you need to get out and experience the hidden wonders along each trail. There is even a bonus chapter featuring Camp Creek State Park with miles of additional trails!
About the author
R. Bryan Simon is a WV native and current Fayatteville resident. A graduate of West Point, he was an infantry officer before an injury forced him to leave the military for other goals. He currently serves on the board of directors for the New River Climbers' Alliance, and his writing can be found in magazines, journals, and textbooks. Keep an eye out for his upcoming guide, A Local's Guide to the New River Gorge National Park and Preserve.
Details
2021 Ourea Publishing
by Bryan Simon
352 color pages
9781733623261
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Hiking and Biking in the New River Gorge (Blemished)
$23.00
Blemished during transport. May include dents, scratches, or slight warping to the cover and/or interior pages. If you're looking to save a bit of money, blemished copies are a great value!
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Hueco Tanks North Mountain
$36.00
About the book
Hueco Tanks State Park in West Texas has some of the best bouldering in the world, featuring some of the country’s most famous boulder problems. It is also a precious repository of ancient Native American rock art, and every trip to Hueco involves delightful hunts for the famous “masks.” This is volume 1 of our second generation of Hueco bouldering guides. Much has changed at Hueco since the original 2004 edition : the discovery of new rock art led to changes in access, there are great new places to stay, and new problems abound! This comprehensive guide covers 850 problems at self-guided North Mountain (200 new problems since the last edition). For guided-only areas (West Mountain, East Mountain, and the East Spur), there is also a 20+ page “greatest-hits” section, full of maps and great imagery. We also include a thorough guide to navigating the park regulations and the tour-guide sytem so you can get the most out of your visit. Jason Kehl put in an incredible effort to update and beautify Matt Wilder’s original work for this new edition! Please note: this volume is comprehensive for North Mountain only. For hard-bit Hueco connoisseurs, a comprehensive book for the guided-tour-only section of the park is in the works! For more online information on the access to Hueco, check out this site.
Areas covered
North Slope - 9 areas
Front Side - 7 areas
Eastern Slope - 4 areas
Top of the Chains - 5 areas
Summit plateau - 4 areas
Southern Slope - 2 areas
“The Backcountry” - 20+ pages of the best problems
Features
$1 from each book sold is donated to the Climbers of Hueco Tanks Coalition
Durable, sewn binding
Unique drone-sourced schematic maps
Color photos of almost every boulder
Routes color-coded by difficulty
Cultural and climbing history of the park
Essential advice on lodging, amenities, logistics
Essays by John Sherman, the late Todd Skinner, Fred Nicole, Ashima Shiraishi, Bronson MacDonald, Sam Davis, and Thomasina Pidgeon
Action photos by Andy Mann, Gustavo Moser, Merrick Ales, John Wesely, Jim Thornburg, Boone Speed, Sandra Studer, Colette McInerney, and more
About the authors
Jason Kehl has been bouldering in Hueco since 1996. His national claims to fame include his first ascent of the notorious Evilution (V12, 2002) in the Buttermilks and the first bouldering ascent of The Fly (5.14d, 2003) in Rumney. Since then he has made hard first ascents from Japan and Peru to Europe and the US, including The Seventh Circle (V14) in Hueco. Jason is also well known for his creation of unusual art — see www.cryptochild.com. He has shaped holds for SoIll for 20 years, and has designed more than 10 gyms, including the Englewood, CO, Earth Treks, one of the biggest in the country. He now lives in El Paso with the lovely Martina Mali and their sweet baby daughter Eva Luna and son Luka Von. When not writing guidebooks, he continues to shape holds, design gyms, and make videos while exploring the endless potential of Hueco Tanks. Matt Wilder grew up New England and honed his skills through many seasons in Hueco during the late 1990s and early 2000s. In 2004, he authored the first edition of this guide, which documented hundreds of classic new problems. Bandersnatch (V13) is one of his better Hueco first ascents, and he is a true all-arounder, with 5.14 R trad FAs, the first onsight of Zion’s Moonlight Buttress (V, 5.12d), and several one-day ascents of El Cap. Matt completed a PhD in computer science at CU Boulder and currently runs a small consulting company doing work in Artificial Intelligence and Machine Learning. Outside of work and climbing, Matt has made several appearances on the popular TV show American Ninja Warrior, including some of the series' most exciting moments. Living in Boulder, CO, since 2006, he still makes it down to Hueco on a regular basis, though now much of the climbing is done with his son Bayes, who recently climbed his first 5.14, Rodeo Free Europe, at age 10.
Details
2020 Wolverine Publishing second edition
by Matt Wilder and Jason Kehl
308 full-color pages
9781938393365
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Idaho Underground
$36.00
About the book
You’ve probably seen photos of the spectacular limestone walls of the Fins, renowned for their big, clean, hard sport lines. Idaho Underground is their big debut. But that is just the tip of the Idaho potato — more than 20 other southern Idaho crags are covered here, near Boise, Twin Falls, and the Sun Valley area. Locals and a few savvy visitors have long known about the truly “underground” areas such as Boise’s Black Cliffs, Dierkes Lake, Leslie Gulch, and more — including the crazy Lava Caves, with juggy, upside-down climbing set beneath windswept sage flats. Dave Bingham, Godfather of Idaho climbing, put out the B&W first edition of this guide in 2012; with hundreds of new climbs to share, this color guide really showcases them! Check out this video from La Sportiva if you want to see the beautiful Fins (and the second ascent of a 5.14d).
Some of the areas covered
The Fins
Boise’s Black Cliffs
Table Rock
Leslie Gulch
Dierkes Lake
Teddy Bear Cove
Ramshorn Canyon
Lava Caves
The Channel
Idaho Underground Features
Over 1500 climbs, — sport, trad, multi-pitch, and bouldering
Durable, sewn binding
Lots of helpful regional information
Drone-assisted cliff imagery of the Fins
Essays by Jonny Woodward, Jonathan Siegrist, Tedd Thompson, and more
$1 from every book sold goes to local climbing organizations
About the author
In addition to Idaho Underground, Dave Bingham is also the author of several editions of the ever-popular City of Rocks guidebooks. He grew up in the Northeast, learning to ski and climb there before moving out West in the 1970s and settling near Sun Valley, Idaho. In addition to his impressive roster of FAs, his is an accomplished endurance athlete, with many wins in mountain-running and Nordic ski races. Check out the City of Rocks website entry for more details on his remarkable achievements. Dave lives in Hailey with his wife Lisa, where he runs a log-home chinking business, Dave Bingham Chinking.
Details
Idaho Underground
2019 Wolverine Publishing
by Dave Bingham
316 full-color pages
9781938393358