Wolverine Publishing
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Updates

RIFLE MOUNTAIN PARK, CO NEW ROUTES AND UPDATES
Rifle Mountain Park update page 2008.
This page last modified Sept 2009

This page details new routes, updates, and corrections for rock climbs at Rifle Mountain Park since the publication of our Rifle Mountain Park and Western Colorado Rock Climbs guidebook in spring 2008.
Numbers refer to the guidebook for each sector.

RUCKMAN CAVE

0a. Wreaths of Wrath 12b *
This is now the farthest left route on Ruckman Cave. Start out a steep bulge just left of Kielbasa Run and continue up the gray arête and face above.
100ft. ?Bs. Darek Krol 08

0b. Kielbasa Run 12a **
Start just left of Noble Wife. A very long technical route. Darek undertook the Herculean task of wire-brushing this thing, but there’s still some dirty rock. It should clean up and become a classic. It’s very cool to climb all the way to the top of this big wall, and there’s some thin Buoux type slab right up near the top. Needs a 70 meter rope to lower.
110ft. 17Bs. Darek Krol 08.

3. Shibumi 13a ***
This route now has a good 4 bolt direct start courtesy of Steve Damboise. No change to the overall grade.

5a. Waiting for 21 5.13b/c **
You may find yourself waiting for cool temps ... Climb Beer Run to the good rest after the first crux. Traverse hard right, using long slings to reduce rope drag, and enter the crux, bearing down hard (but not too hard!) on a fragile undercling and very cool slopers to easier climbing above.
80 ft. 14 Bs. Hayden Kennedy 2008.

16a. Loose Cannon 5.12a ***
Branches left after the first few bolts of Primer, climbing shallow left-facing corners.
100ft. 14Bs. Jeremy Hensel, Mike Brumbaugh, 2009.

16b. Prime Evil 12a *
Thin and crimpy. Climb Loose Cannon to the 9th bolt, then traverse up and right to a small dihedral. Continue past three more bolts to the anchor.
90ft. 12Bs. Jeremy Hensel, Josh Gilger, 2009.

17a. Prime the Pump 12a
Climb Primer to the anchors then traverse left to a small dihedral. Continue past three more bolts the the anchor.
90ft. 12Bs. Jeremy Hensel, Josh Gilger, 2009.

18a. Prime Time 12a
Climb Pellet Gun to the end but do not clip the anchors.  Instead traverse left to the last bolt on Primer.  Continue past the anchors on Primer to the higher anchors on Prime the Pump.
100ft. Bs. Jeremy Hensel, Josh Gilger, 2009.

19a. Princess of Turandot 5.11c *
Extends Nessun Dorma (19). Hard insecure and a bit scary (because of the ledge below you) right above the anchors on Nessun Dorma. 70 meter rope required to lower.
120ft. 17Bs. Darek Krol 08.

MEAT WALL

15a. Dirty Johnson 5.12d **
Start as for Lost and Found moving left at the first bolt. Hard pulls on underclings start this long pitch, featuring multiple cruxes interspersed with good rests. Finish on the prominent (dirty) arête with a ballsy run to the anchors. 35 meter pitch.
Tony Yao 2009.

15b. Lost My Johnson 5.12c **
Climb all of Lost and Found, then step left and finish up Dirty Johnson. 
Jeremy Hensel 2009

PROJECT WALL

11b. Of Mice And Men 5.14a *
This route extends Mighty Mouse (the Mousetrap extension) to the top of the Project Wall in a single monster pitch. The climbing at the top looks deceptively vertical but is extremely thin and technical.
Equipper: Hayden Kennedy. FFA: Sam Elias, 2009.

ANTI-PHIL

6a Kill Phil 5.12a
Balance up the techy face a few feet right of Sing It In Russian, make cool moves around the small roof, and finish with a committing traverse left to join Sing It In Russian at its second to last bolt.
50ft. 8Bs. Josh Wharton 2009.

21a. Don’t Call Me Phil 5.11d
Start just right of Philology. Follow the corner crack up and right and continue straight up. Still dirty but will be fun when it cleans up.
70 ft. 9Bs. Darek Krol, 2009.

21b. Night Vision 5.11c
Extends Ride The Snake.
90 ft. 10Bs. Darek Krol, Brad Buhrow, 2008.

22c. Blue and Black 5.12a *
Extends Purple and Green, with a hard sequence on sidepulls right off the anchor.
90ft. Darek Krol, Bard Buhrow, 2008.

WINCHESTER CAVE

11a. Mr. Sniff 5.12a *
Just right of Quickdraws, joining that route in the middle for a move or two. A bit squeezed but great rock. Named after Lee’s dog Luke.
60ft. 9Bs. Lee Sheftel 2009.

THE BAUHAUS.

10. Girl Talk 5.14c ****
Andy Raethers project, climbed by Dave Graham, listed as undone project in guide. You might have seen videos of this one and read about the controversial FA in the mags. Probably the hardest route in Rifle and one of the best. The direct start of Benign Intervention and continuing to the anchors of Huge at the very top of the wall. 
100ft. Dave Graham, 2008.

CANINE WALL
The topo for the Canine Wall in the guidebook is incorrect. Click here for a revised topo {link}.

0a. Mutt Lange 5.10d/11a 
First route encountered on the Canine Wall if approaching directly from Feline.
40ft. 4Bs. Michael & Rachel McGee and A. Young 2008

6a. Hazed and Infused. 5.11a**
A great technical face climb 20 ft right of Vikings. Climbs a brushed streak up a tall vertical face. This one will keep you thinking and on your toes all the way to the anchors. 
80 ft. 11Bs. Michael Mcee, 2008.

MIDDLE ICE CAVES

2. Ledged Assault 
FA is by Chad Brown.

6a. Borat 5.11a **
Make glorious ascent by starting 15 feet right of Rickles and heading up and left into steep groove with tricky exit moves. 
60ft. 8Bs. Dave Pegg, 2009.

6b. Rickles 5.7 **
A fun and popular route up a flake system right of Pryor. The right-most and easiest route on The Funny Face.
50ft. 9Bs. Michael J. and Rachel McGee, 2008

9a. Costello 5.10d *
Left of Carlin. The farthest left route on Funny Face.
60ft. 12Bs. Michael J. and Rachel McGee.

LOWER ICE CAVES

12a. Bloodhound 5.12c ***
Long extension to Road to Nowhere. Technical face climbing to a manly bulge. 
15Bs. 70-meter rope essential.
Dave Pegg, 2009.

SKULL CAVE

8. Broken Bone 5.13d *
Bone Machine, reclimbed and rennamed by Joe Kinder after the hold broke.
Joe Kinder 2008.

LOWER TIER

7a. Chicken Soup 5.13b **
Climb the easy corner crack right of Soup Nazi, clipping two new bolts. Step left into Soup Nazi above its crux, and climb it to the top. 
Equipper Lee Sheftel. FA Hayden Kennedy 2009.

THE ARSENAL

3a. Das Fruit Machine 5.13a ** 
A good kneebar-dependent route that plugs the blinding obvious gap between Pretty Hate Machine and Matador Pants.
8Bs. Dave Pegg, 2008.

WICKED CAVE

7. The Crew 5.14c ***
Uprated to 5.14c. Holds have broken on the bottom of this route. The consensus grade seems to be .14c.

SNO CONE WALL

7. Brenna 5.10c *
This route is incorrectly listed as the left-most route on this part of the Sno-Cone Wall and rated 5.8 in the guidebook. It is actually lies between A Stirring of Air (#5) and Gook-a-Nook (#6) and is more like 5.10c. Most sustained of the easier routes here.
50 ft. 7Bs. Scott Bouldien 2007

8a. No Risk No Fin 5.10d *
Start just left of Mariscos Lambada, between Mariscos and a little bush growing out of a ledge. Watch out for the rotten bank at the start. Other than that, this is a good route on good stone that will clean nicely after a little travel. An interesting power crux to gain the fins and a nice stem.
50 ft. 6Bs. Andrea Bruder 2009.

8b. Achilles 5.14a ***
Danny’s new route up the line of angling steepness on the far left side of the Sno-Cone wall opposite the Arsenal. Reputed to be very good and hard. 
Danny Robertson, 2008